Fitting Cut Off Switch

olliecast

olliecast

Active Member
I've got a standard cut off switch in the boot to disconnect the battery when the ignition is off.
The one I've now bought protects the alternator when cutting the engine too. This is going to be on my switch panel in the dash, along with my fuel pump control when the surge system goes in
 
Last edited:
gtirx2

gtirx2

Active Member
Can't 100% remember, but i think it the thick green wire that splits into 2 going to the ignition switch you want?
Think i did a continuity test from this wire to the positive on the coil to check it was the right one,you will want to double check all this though as i cant be totally sure now?
My cut off switch seems to work ok though.
 
P

pschurr

New Member
You'll want to break the IGN=ON circuit between the key barrel and the ECU.

When you turn the ignition barrel to ON, you switch battery voltage through to pin 36 on the ECU.
The ECU sees this, and then pulls the output voltage on pin 4 down to close to 1v, which is the trigger to the ECCS relay.
The ECCS relay closes and supplies battery power to various supply pins on the ECU (via a separate fuse). This is the source of operational power to the ECU (not via the key barrel).
The key barrel is just the switch that triggers the ECCS relay (even though it still goes through the ECU to trigger it).

If you break the ON circuit between key barrel and pin 36, you cause the ECCS relay to open and power to the ECU is lost - as if you'd turned the key back to ACC or Off.

Page EF&EC 464
http://www.gtirworkshopmanual.com/default.aspx?v=927



peter
 
olliecast

olliecast

Active Member
Cheers fro the input guys, that's a massive help.

I'll how to this when I do it.

So does that's the ignition side covered.

My battery is in the boot so I just break this cable and connect it to the large connectors on the switch. The "top right" prong in the pic says connect this also to the battery cable, is it just a case of putting a bridging cable in?

Then there the coil attachment, where is it best to take this from?

Thanks again,
Ollie
 
gtirx2

gtirx2

Active Member
Still working of memory here but the ignition wire and coil wire are the same thing,i think its the thick green wire (double check this) at the ignition switch that go's to the coil.
You need to cut this wire at the ignition barrel and then join the ignition barrel side of this cut wire to the fia switch ignition terminal and then the other side of the cut wire go's to the coil terminal on your fia switch.
The top right prong like you say just connect it back onto the large main connection on the fia switch.

 
Trip

Trip

New Member
Do not cut the wire of the ECU. Although it will still work, its not the safest way to do it and a strict scrutineering will fail it.

Some other words of advise: Get a meter and make sure you identify the 4 terminals on the bottom. As shown above Circuit 1 should be OFF when main is ON, and circuit two should be ON when master is ON. If you are planning to do two master's (like i did) PM me and i will explain how to route and connect all 6 terminals.
 
Trip

Trip

New Member
i installed it on the red/black wire which feeds the coil.




and here is a basic diagram how the FIA master switch works

 
watoga

watoga

Member
Hi Trip,

Does this mean:

FIA master + = Battery +
FIA master electrical feed = starter & loom (what wire is this???)
FIA circuit 1 left = resistor to ground
FIA circuit 1 right = jumpered onto FIA master electrical feed
FIA circuit 2 left = red/black wire running to ECU pin 36
FIA circuit 2 right = red/black wire running to key barrel

Would this be correct? Or am I talking rubbish?

Thanks,
Dave
 
Trip

Trip

New Member
watoga said:
Hi Trip,

Does this mean:

FIA master + = Battery +
FIA master electrical feed = starter & loom (what wire is this???)
FIA circuit 1 left = resistor to ground
FIA circuit 1 right = jumpered onto FIA master electrical feed
FIA circuit 2 left = red/black wire running to ECU pin 36
FIA circuit 2 right = red/black wire running to key barrel

Would this be correct? Or am I talking rubbish?

Thanks,
Dave
Click to expand...
FIA master + = Battery +
FIA master electrical feed = You need to connect all cables which were connected to the positive terminal of battery
FIA circuit 1 left = resistor to ground
FIA circuit 1 right = jumpered onto FIA master electrical feed

As for circuit 2, cut the red/black wire which is feeding the coil, connect one end to FIA circuit 2 left and the other to FIA circuit 2 right.
 
olliecast

olliecast

Active Member
cheers trip and dave, some great input here.

my switch came today so will be wiring mine up when my swirl pot casing arrives :)

let us know how you get on dave, and don`t forget the camera
 
watoga

watoga

Member
Hi Ollie,

I'm in a similar boat to you. Once I get my external fuel tank all plumbed up I'll tackle the wiring. Trying to get a custom dash made too which will contain all the necessary gauges and switches. But of course, I'll take photos every step of the way ;)

Cheers,
Dave
 
olliecast

olliecast

Active Member
What you having in the dash mounted switches then dave?
I was planning the cut off and external fuel pump switch but ultimately I'll need to get it on a relay with the standard pump unless I can get the cut off switch to stop that working aswell
 
watoga

watoga

Member
Since I'll be running an external fuel tank and swirl pot combo, I'm going to have a switch for the fuel pump which primes the swirl pot, then another switch for the master fuel pump which feeds the fuel rail. Of course, these switches will simply feed relays in the boot, so thankfully the wire doesn't have to be that thick. But regardless, they will be also fed through the FIA master switch so the pumps will automatically be disconnected if that key is switched off.

I'm trying to mock things up with a spare centre console (plastic thingy that had the original ash-tray, tape player, etc.) so I know how to fit all the gauges and switches in.

You'll probably have yours done before mine so I'll let you be the guinea pig! ;)
Dave
 
Trip

Trip

New Member
watoga said:
Since I'll be running an external fuel tank and swirl pot combo, I'm going to have a switch for the fuel pump which primes the swirl pot, then another switch for the master fuel pump which feeds the fuel rail. Of course, these switches will simply feed relays in the boot, so thankfully the wire doesn't have to be that thick. But regardless, they will be also fed through the FIA master switch so the pumps will automatically be disconnected if that key is switched off.

I'm trying to mock things up with a spare centre console (plastic thingy that had the original ash-tray, tape player, etc.) so I know how to fit all the gauges and switches in.

You'll probably have yours done before mine so I'll let you be the guinea pig! ;)
Dave
Click to expand...
Is there the need to have separate switches for the pumps, you can have them combined and the ECU will trigger the relay to switch them on together. If the fuel return from fuel rail is connected to the swirl pot, it will be filled up the swirl pot in no time. A word of advise is the more switches and relays you have, the harder it will be to find a fault. Do not over-engineer things :thumbsup:

If you want to go further for safety, i have installed an Inertia switch to the fuel pump relay. This will switch off the fuel pump automatically if god forbides i have an accident.
This is the one i have http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150434962867
 
olliecast

olliecast

Active Member
trip, with your resistor to ground, did you just solder the resistor onto the switch and then to a wire onto a ground source?
also, what size wire/cable did you use to bridge the wire onto the main electrical feed?

cheers,
ollie
 
watoga

watoga

Member
Hi Trip,

My main worry was the master fuel pump running dry for the initial couple of seconds while the fuel tank feeds the slave pump, which starts to fill the swirl pot, which then feeds the master pump. I was going to just have a single switch, but time-after-time I have been told not to run the master pump dry for any length of time. Is this nonsense? Do you think the pump will survive since it's only for a few seconds at most?

Cheers for the input,
Dave
 
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