ECU Code "Long, Short, Short (Pause) Long, Short, Short"

GTiR-Aholic

New Member
Hi Guys,

I found the sticky on how to check the ecu code and got:
"Long, Short, Short (Pause) Long, Short, Short"

Is that shouting 12 - 12... as in AFM twice?

I shorted it for 3seconds to check the code then it just kept repeating that code so I re-shorted it whilst it was repeating then turned ignition off.. started car.. then turned car off, put ignition to "ON" position and tried again.. same code.

Problem? - Car won't rev over 3000rpm (Limp Mode) .. i tried it with the air mass sensor disconnected from the air filter and it made no difference.
 
Either your AFM is gubbed or maybe could have a loose connection somewhere.
So maybe get the multimeter out and check the wires from the ecu plug to the AFM plug to see if theirs continuity their.

Also is anyone local to you, so you can try the AFM on each others car.
This lets you test your AFM on another car and use the known working one on yours to prove the wiring is okay?
 

Fusion Ed

Active Member
If its in true limp mode you wont even get fault codes from it so it sounds like a sensor failure. Try another AFM/check wiring as above.
 

GTiR-Aholic

New Member
Either your AFM is gubbed or maybe could have a loose connection somewhere.
So maybe get the multimeter out and check the wires from the ecu plug to the AFM plug to see if theirs continuity their.

Also is anyone local to you, so you can try the AFM on each others car.
This lets you test your AFM on another car and use the known working one on yours to prove the wiring is okay?

Yeah I've got 2 R's (1 I'm breaking for spares) but I can't find the AFM from that one.. took it off and misplaced it :doh:

But thanks for your response, needed a second opinion that it IS a AFM circuit error and I wasn't reading the code wrong :lol:
 

GTiR-Aholic

New Member
If its in true limp mode you wont even get fault codes from it so it sounds like a sensor failure. Try another AFM/check wiring as above.
Oh right.. couldn't be the AFM restricting it to 3000rpm though could it :shock: I didn't think that would be possible.

I've got a bad missfire, abnormal idle + not revving over 3000rpm.

...All this has happened after a engine transplant over the weekend :sad:
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
It's more likely that if the ECU isn't getting a signal from the AFM it just doesn't know what to do with the fuelling - maybe 3k is about as high as it can manage before the AFM signal is just garbage and the fuelling dies.
 

GTiR-Aholic

New Member
Just tried the AFM from my other R which is known good as the car was doing 315bhp with that AFM no probs.. put it on and made no difference.

What sort of mVA would I be looking for using a multimeter on the loom end of the AFM, does anyone have this information or could possibly check theirs?

What else could it be? I know sometimes if the ecu tells you a sensor is faulty it's not Always that sensor.. it's sometimes can be something else on the car causing it give wrong signals.
 

gtir_pimp

New Member
i had a similar problem a while back. theres a plug under the drivers seat. try unplugging it and see if that makes any difference. it worked for me
 

GTiR-Aholic

New Member
i had a similar problem a while back. theres a plug under the drivers seat. try unplugging it and see if that makes any difference. it worked for me
Yeah!.. that's the "After-Cat Lamber Sensor".. the R's have a pre-cat sensor and a sensor after cat.. mine burnt out and I replaced it.. but I was thinking of disconnecting it and seeing if it makes a difference..

I'll try that:thumbsup:
 

GTiR-Aholic

New Member
no luck with the lamber sensor, disconnected it from under drivers seat but made no difference.. if anything possibly slightly worse so I'm sure that's not the cause.

Quick question.. the TPS (where does the earth go, it's a skinny little wire with a ring connector) and on the fuel pressure regulator, there's a feed/return pipe and then like an air/vacuum pipe.. where does the vacuum go?

I wasn't too sure on those two things so I've put the TPS earth to the intercooler mounting bracket and left the fpr vacuum pipe off.
 

geoff pine

Well-Known Member
no luck with the lamber sensor, disconnected it from under drivers seat but made no difference.. if anything possibly slightly worse so I'm sure that's not the cause.

Quick question.. the TPS (where does the earth go, it's a skinny little wire with a ring connector) and on the fuel pressure regulator, there's a feed/return pipe and then like an air/vacuum pipe.. where does the vacuum go?

I wasn't too sure on those two things so I've put the TPS earth to the intercooler mounting bracket and left the fpr vacuum pipe off.
Did you take the carpet up as the connection is under the carpet under the drivers seat. The one under the seat is for the seat belt tension-er or the warning light as there's one under both seats
 

nismoboy

New Member
no luck with the lamber sensor, disconnected it from under drivers seat but made no difference.. if anything possibly slightly worse so I'm sure that's not the cause.

Quick question.. the TPS (where does the earth go, it's a skinny little wire with a ring connector) and on the fuel pressure regulator, there's a feed/return pipe and then like an air/vacuum pipe.. where does the vacuum go?

I wasn't too sure on those two things so I've put the TPS earth to the intercooler mounting bracket and left the fpr vacuum pipe off.
The vacuum pipe must be connected to inlet manifold otherwise you`ll get hardly any pressure at the rail. As for the earth on the tps its usually just earthed on the block this will be fine but if u wanna be fussy put it straight to the chassis.
 

nismoboy

New Member
also any fuel controllers esp piggy backs will also interfere with the afm circuit these will need to be fully removed including the harness.
 

GTiR-Aholic

New Member
Did you take the carpet up as the connection is under the carpet under the drivers seat. The one under the seat is for the seat belt tension-er or the warning light as there's one under both seats
Yeah I removed the carpet already because I have been installing sound proofing/insulation.. :thumbsup: i've actually changed the lamber sensor which is connected under the drivers seat.. pain to get out the exhaust but changed it in the end with a known working one off my old R.
 

GTiR-Aholic

New Member
also any fuel controllers esp piggy backs will also interfere with the afm circuit these will need to be fully removed including the harness.
I had the Apexi Super AFC installed behind the dash above the ecu, the old analogue type.. I disconnected it and left the harness in place thinking it would revert back to standard ecu settings - I'll hook it back up and see what happens.

Thanks for the input :)
 

GTiR-Aholic

New Member
Hi Guys,

Right.. the Apexi Super AFC is on it's way down to me as I left it at home (at my garage at the moment).
I've taken out all the plugs, cleaned them up they all look good.. NGK Iridium ;)
I've taken out all the injectors, cleaned them up with carb-spray and checked the nipples they all letting fuel through so no blockages there plus got injector cleaner in tank with petrol anyway from before.

I have found 2 problems..
1. The MAP sensor to the right of the battery & air filter has a vacuum, it should go to intake manifold but there's no space on the intake.. ?
2. Nismoboy gave me following diagram: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/nismogtir/gtirvacuum-1.jpg
It shows the FPR Vacuum and Boost Gauge Vacuum connected to vacuum connection behind the plenum.. well I just checked mine and it's got a t-piece (1 vacuum hose going from plenum to T-junction, another vacuum hose going from T-junction to FPR vacuum and 3rd exit from T-junction is empty and so leaking vacuum!) - Where can I find this 3rd vacuum pipe.. which is supposedly for the boost gauge because I can't seem to find it anywhere..
 

GTiR-Aholic

New Member
Damn.. that's a real vacuum tongue-twister right there!! lol.

Basically need to find where the std boost gauge vacuum pipe is as it's not on the T-junction connecting to plenum and fpr.
 

GTiR-Aholic

New Member
I GOT IT WORKING :D

It was my apexi SAFC... it was disconnected.. I got the old analogue one with 5 knobs but put the settings to zero hoping it would reset the air-flow to std but it hasn't.. it's jus running poor now.

Can anyone help with the settings? I searched the forums, found one guy said something about sw4 & 5??.. nothing about knob settings though.

Car revs throughout the rev range now.. I took it to 4,500rpm just to make sure it's revving but didn't go over because fueling is not good at all.

Thanks to everyone for all the input!! :)
 

snoon

New Member
no luck with the lamber sensor, disconnected it from under drivers seat but made no difference.. if anything possibly slightly worse so I'm sure that's not the cause.

Quick question.. the TPS (where does the earth go, it's a skinny little wire with a ring connector) and on the fuel pressure regulator, there's a feed/return pipe and then like an air/vacuum pipe.. where does the vacuum go?

I wasn't too sure on those two things so I've put the TPS earth to the intercooler mounting bracket and left the fpr vacuum pipe off.
The lambder sensor is in your turbo elbow. The one under the seat is just a heat sensor (Most people run without these due to either a de-cat pipe or custom exhaust, as i do).

is your ecu totally standard?

Try another. Mine wouldn't remove the knock sensor fault even after a brand new knock sensor was fitted. Replaced ecu for another standard one - job sorted.

Worth trying, especially if your breaking one as you probably have one - hopefully not with your missing AFM!!:thumbsup:

Also, when i was attempting to wire in my Z32, in the end i removed it and replaced with standard. When replacing my standard AFM I put the wires in the connectors wrong and it ran just like you describe. Only difference was that when I did the fault code check it would reset to 5 - 5 which is all clear. Then when started again it would run like sh!t and go back to the AFM fault code.
 
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