Earthing points

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
OEM, key one is thetwo on the inlet manifold for the ECU.
Earth strap for the engine on the front right of engine
Earth point for the alternator plus a few sensors front left (by washer bottle)

Inside the passenger foot well near the door is one for internal and I think there is another one near the passenger seats for bits and bobs.

Chnage the connectros and clean up the body contact point is generally sufficient.
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
Mine has just got a new lead from the chassis to the negative terminal on the battery.
 

P11SR20DET

New Member
Some time ago I took some extra 8 awg and 4 awg wire I had from previous ICE installs and attached some lugs, and did a crude home made grounding kit. The before-and-after difference was definitely noticeable. There was a much smoother and responsive acceleration for sure. I'd recommend doing it if you have some time. Total time for me was 2-3 hours. I made a grounding strip out of some old air conditioning copper tubing I had at home. Sliced it length-ways with a hacksaw blade and pounded it open and flat. Seen here :



I then routed the wires to various points, namely:
1. Transmission bolt.
2. Thermostat housing, jumped to bolt by oil breather catch can.
3. Right shock tower, jumped to alternator.
4. Intake plenum.
5. Original battery body ground.

I also cleaned all the existing ones I could find and reach easily. Example: the ones coming off the injector harness to the intake.

I also added a 4awg from the (+ve) on the alternator to the battery.
 

Fusion Ed

Active Member
If it were me Id just replace the existing ones. I reckon Battery to themostat to engine block to alt is over kill enough. Then clean up the ones on the inlet plenum as that is the cental earthing ground for the ECU and all the ECU sensors.
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
I can't help but feel that if you need that kind of earthing to keep the transient voltages down, you've got bigger problems... but I guess after 20-odd years you can't expect all the components to be as good as they used to be.
 

stumo

Active Member
you'll probibly find that when the "earthing kits" are fitted and people clean the original connectors and earth points then that will be the reason why it will run better, not because of the actual earthing kit.
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
I agree Stu, when first did my DIY earthing kit I also changed the lugs on the standards wires and cleaned the contact areas.

I completely replaced the main engine earth and the alternator earth wire though. The main engine earth is needed to get the ECU earths on the inlet mainfold back to the chassis.

The car did run better.

Over the years I've stripped off all my additional earth wires to eliminate the possibility of earth loops when fault checking. They've all stayed off the car now including the Z32 chassis earth and everything is running as well as ever.
 
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