distributor query

I recently adjusted my timing slightly to try and get the damn thing running better as it was only set at about 15deg. After driving for a bit the car felt a bit better but still nowhere near right. I did a fault code test and got 11 (crank angle sensor) which i've never had before. I decided to have a look at the dizzy but after i'd taken the rotor arm off I noticed the shaft on the distributor was a bit loose. There's a screw that had come loose inside the shaft so I tightened it up and put it back together. I haven't driven the car as yet to see if it's any better but could this lead to running problems as when the rotor arm is spinning at high speed presumably this could mess up the timing...? here's hoping :-D
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
Drive the car and find out.

I noticed my shaft had avery slight bit of play in it the other day. I wonder if I've got a screw loose too. (shattit you lot) How much did you need to strip down to get to this screw?
 

gtir bean

New Member
mine came loose enough for it to turn independant of the cam meaning my car died in the midle of town in the rain.
 
A

AJ4

Guest
Steve ( Major_Sarcasm ) had something similar, the dizzy was shagged and had to be replaced.
 
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AJ4

Guest
Just thought, I'll elaborate a little on his behalf just incase you have the same problem you'll know what to look for.

On his dizzy, he could grap the rotor arm and twist the shaft through about 20 degrees by hand. The shaft inside the dizzy had a 'D' shape, and the timing wheel sits on this D so it can't rotate. There a a metal thingy (?) that is geared to the timing wheel that holds the rotor arm in the right place.

On his the 'D' bit has become all distorted so it was more of an 'O' shape, ie the flat bit was all messed up. This meant the rotor are could move relative to the shaft and it screwed up his timing by anything up to 20 degrees. He found that if he revved the shit out the car, the rotor would turn back to its original position and it would run fine. But just normal driving, when he accelerated, the rotor arm was flung back round the shaft and put the timing out. He replaced the timing disc with the knakcered 'D' for a good one and it cured it.

Just thought it might be useful for you.
 
I will drive it today and find out.

Fast Guy all you need to do is remove the cap and rotor arm and look inside the shaft and there is a screw, easy peasy.

Now that i've done it up there's no movement in the rotor arm whereas before as AJ4 said if I grabbed the rotor arm I could twist it about 20deg, hopefully should run a lot better now...
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
Mine isn't that bad. It's probably got less than 1mm of movement at the tip of the rotor arm. It just felt far from rock solid when I tried to move it.
I'll check the screw anyway.
 
S

swanny

Guest
My 'R cut out the other day, took dizzy cap off to find rotor arm loose inside ! I had it recently replaced and am guessing it wasn't tightened up properly :(

Now getting running probs when coming on boost, am hoping it hasn't screwed arm / cap when it came loose - Gotta love the 'R ;)
 
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AJ4

Guest
It might have knacked the timing disc for the reason I posted above.
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
What probs? Try tightening every boost hose jubilee clip you can see, even if they look tight.
 
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The other thing I noticed was on top of the distributor there is a metal tab like you would push a spade connector on, wondered if there should be an earth on there or something...?
 
No, dude, keep looking. Be paranoid; it's the only way to keep the fucking things running ;)

Thanks for posting that, Ross, saved me the job. All running right now. Had to advance the Motec timing by 24 deg to get over the probs caused by it being mapped (presumably) with a knackered dizzy :D
 
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