Det prob, Actuator Question

[swawuk]

Really need some help. Been having trouble getting my R running after its been sitting for 5 years. I thought i had it sorted when I had the 55 all clear. I took it for a test run and it wasn't running right at all. checked the fault code again, 34 turns up. I thought I would check the resistance on pin 27 on ECU. Nothing! I spent some time getting the Knock Sensor off. Little Ba$tard! only a little tug and the cable snapped off. Brilliant I thought, a loose cable and thats it. To try it I bolted the sensor on the front of the engine. I tested the two pins, as you look at it bolted on the engine, the right pin had no reading at all. the left pin had 0.64 ohm resistance. When looking at the plug which snapped off, it had been resoldered. The one cable was connected to the right pin??????? which had no reading. I changed it to the left pin and ran a cable to pin 27. Checked fault code and 55. Test drove it, ran better, not right at all, considering engine has been highly modified. Fault 34 again.

Should my next step be getting the timing done, incase the det sensor is doing its job???

Is 0.64 ohm an ok reading for the sensor???

A random question, does the actuator need a pressure or a vacuum on it???

Any help will be much appreciated, sorry for the long story.

Steve

 

[stumo]

from memory i think the resistance should be 600ohm so matbe you had the meter sat to Kohms, in which case it's probibly ok.

the actuator need pressure to work (it senses boost pressure and opens the wastegate according to what the boost is)

 

[swawuk]

Thanks for the reply.
Can anyone confirm the resistance, that the knock sensor should be? I think ive read that its 600k ohms. My reading definately read 0.64 ohms. Is it knackered?

Also, what pin should the cable, going back to the ECU, be connected to. As you look at the sensor as its bolted on, left or right pin?

Steve

 

[swawuk]

Hi, right I checked the timing and it was 8 degrees out. The reason why it was running so rough!!

I took it for another test run and 10x better.

Checked the fault code, but still flashing 34!!! I think my sensor may be knackered.

Is there any way of bypassing it just to test if it is running in safe mode?

I did check the resistance of the sensor and believe it to be wrong.

At the mo Ive got the det sensor on the front of the block and and cable lashed to 27 on ECU.

Any help would be great.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Fusion Ed]

They are piezo tranducers. They have a high impedance not low. If your reading is right then you need a new one.

 

[Braveheart]

Hi Steve...... I have had a simillar problem.
Going to order a new Knock sensor although this on is still holding out.
I'll measure the resistance of both and let u know.

Later,
Scott.

P.S. It will be two weeks or so an life is xmas.

 

[Braveheart]

Hi again Stve,

How dit you get that little daring thing off from up there, under the engine, towards daylight?

 

[swawuk]

it was a nightmare. I jack up car, dropped down pipe of. had extension after extension on a ratchet with a knuckle on the end. I manged just to crack it slightly, then undone it by hand. It took a while, but got there in the end. I'm going to relocate mine, thats too much work for me.lol

Think ive read some people take wheel off and go in that way. I tried that but not much luck.

 

[swawuk]

Ps

where did you order yours from?

Is there a patent part you can get?

Or has anyone got a working Det / Knock sensor???

Cheers

Steve

 

[Braveheart]

Steve,

Thanks for the info. Encouraging to hear that you did actually manage to get the sensor off without removing too much else. I will follow your method but not until after the New Year. I'll keep you posted.
I have not sourced/ordered it yet. Put it on my xmas wish list.
The chap at Falkland performace advised me to try Nissan dealer and also said that the standard sunny should be fitted with the same sensor.

Later,
Scott.

 

[Braveheart]

I phoned Nissan regarding the knock Sensor.
Nissan can supply but it's a wopping £206 :doh:

Part Number 22060-30P00 (all zeros - no oooooooo's)

 

[Braveheart]

Steve,

According to my local Nissan dealer, they can supply the knock sensor but it's not cheap.

Part Number : 22060-30P00 (all zeros.... no Oooooo's) Price £206 (oh my)

Think I can remove and mount it back on with a rubber washer between sensor and block.

Later,
Scott.

 

[swawuk]

£206!!!!!!!! Those robbing little *****

Ive been getting so frustrated with it at the mo. I ran it, what must be safe mode, and it was only as quick as my mate's 172 clio. I'm not impressed seeing as it is meant to have had £7500 spent on the engine.

I hope i only have to get a knock sensor and get it set up.

Otherwise next step...Bang it of the limiter for a while....


Frustrated Steve

 

[Braveheart]

Steve,

Firstly, I see you adjusted your timing.... do you think you might have adjusted it to compensate for the knock error which actually retards ign timming by approx 6 Deg.

When Falkland performance diagnosed my faulty knock sensor they done the following:

Checked CO2 which was above 3% at idle and it went off the scale (>10%) at 3k rpm and above.
They reset ECU error 34 and rechecked: CO2 levels were fine through the revs.

We then took it for a test drive: The car was much smoother and pulled well. When we drove it in anger, the error returned and the car reverted back to being a real dog... running lumpy at tickover (idle went from 850 to 1100 rmp) and the power was all over the place, weak, hesitant and yes...like a Clio... lol.

We popped and farted back to the garage cleared the error code again.
Idle returned to normal and the engine ran smooth again.

later,
Scott.

 

[daz]

yes because when code 34 turns up the ecu retards the timing, overfuel's the car and cuts boost (if on the standard solenoid) if the code does not turn up until you drive the car in anger then i would point the finger at a dodgy connection, because if the det sensor was bolloxed then 34 would appear as soon as you start the car. and iirc the wire should be on the right hand pin but dont hold me to that

 

[daz]

A random question, does the actuator need a pressure or a vacuum on it???

Any help will be much appreciated, sorry for the long story.

Steve

So your actuator has no vacuum hose on it, if not then the car will be running unlimited boost as the wastegate will not open surprised it aint blown up yet lol

 

[swawuk]

I have got a pressure on the actuator at the mo.

When i had the battery disconnected (which i guess resets ecu) i had code 55 but drove it and 34 came back. The battery hasnt been disconnected since and the code stays up. The knock sensor is def knackered. I did change the timing with the fault code up, didnt think about the ecu changing the timing.

So should I disconnect battery again, reset ecu, change the timing back without driving it. Or should i wait for a det sensor and then do it?

 

[daz]

you dont need to disconnect the battery to reset the ecu mate just do a fault code reset on the diagnostic port

 

[swawuk]

ah, didnt know that. shall look up and do that next time. Cheers mate

Steve

 

[Braveheart]

I do not know how to reset ECU but you can by shorting out a couple of pins in the fuse box.... maybe it's a secret!8)