Dash and lights Loss

[Cathode]

Would anyone know why I have just lost all power to the dash and lights? Just all of a sudden they’ve gone. Engine runs, not as well it has to be said but it runs but no lights or instruments work on the dash and lights no longer work. I’ve checked all fuses that I know of and they look fine. I’ve cleaned up the major earths and still nothing.

I’m going to check the electrics again today but if anyone has any idea please let me know

 

[Cathode]

It’s possible that it’s something I’ve done, so just going back over my steps where I might’ve disturbed something. Seems odd that it was all working and now it’s not. Please feel free to chime in with any ideas

 

[Eng1]

It’s hard to diagnose remotely but you are on the right path going over the area you have been .
Lights and instruments lights ,if fuses ok point to the switch on the stalk and stalk loom .
Have you had the column covers off and on ? The loom behind the instrument cluster runs to the right and down to the fuse box area ,have you been there . I could give you a list of test points but don’t have the drawing to hand

 

[Cathode]

I have found 1 dodgy fuse where you said, got a new one but haven’t put it in yet. I doubt that’s the issue though. Seems too easy.

 

[fubar andy]

I have found 1 dodgy fuse where you said, got a new one but haven’t put it in yet. I doubt that’s the issue though. Seems too easy.

Fingers crossed it is!

 

[Cathode]

Thank you Andy but, even though i'm relatively new to the world of Pulsars and its quirks, i've worked on it long enough to know it's just too good to be true and lo...... it didn't work. Well, i'm sure whatever wasn't getting what it needed is now but it didn't solve the main issue. Boooooo!!.....

i'll have to get out ye'ol magnifying glass and continue the investigation.

 

[Eng1]

Both circuits lights and instruments are straight forward , I assume you mean instruments not working rather than instrument lighting not working.
Lights = Fuse - switch on column stalk - to lights
Multi plug on column
Instruments =fuse - plug behind dash to instrument panel (there are 3 plugs )
The only tie up between the instruments and lights is the lighting , so dimmer and the main beam light .
The dimmer can be fitted upside down in the panel ,don’t know if the plug can be reversed, I guess if you push hard enough you could .
Lights —- start at the fuse , do you have power both sides ? Then column cowl off and check at the multiplug , so you have power in and then out with the switch in all positions ? Then check at the lights do you have power at each light ,front and rear ?
Depending on what you find dictates the next move .there are no relays so if someone has used 100 watt bulbs (it happens) the wires can burn out with too much current somewhere

 

[campbellju]

If you've not refreshed all your earths on the car, that can cause strange issues. Good practice anyway with our R's being so old now. Most are in the engine bay and IIRC there is at least one under the dash.

 

[Cathode]

Thanks@Eng and Campbell for these replies! I will get through it systemically. And I didn’t know there was an earth behind the dash! I’ve refurbed 3 in the bay and will hunt down the others.

Eng, you make and interesting point about the lights, I now have headlights Woking but no indicators or rear lights. I was wondering if the sudden use of the brakes had made the bulbs short out the dash in some way, not sure if that’s possible or just me waffling out of my anus but I’ve got new bulbs I’m going to install tomorrow and go from there. When find out why this has happened I promise to update and tie up this thread.

 

[Eng1]

It sounds as if you have an earth problem , as the headlights work , so the rear light earth would be a start place .
I guess it’s instruments lighting not working , so you need to check the dimmer and switch next to it - that’s the one that can fit upside down .
The indicators at the back probably share the same rear light earth .
If an earth is high resistance, it can cross feed circuits connected to that earth .
Any short circuits to earth should blow the fuse

 

[Eng1]

In any electrical system you have to be systematic to diagnose faults and get ALL the symptoms .
The brake light switch has a crappy piece of plastic on it that brakes off ,this puts the brake lights on constantly .
Rear fog lights are usually added (a Uk mot requirement) and sometimes some real crappy wiring done there , ie an illuminated switch connected into the instrument lighting circuit , same goes for radio /cd they are connected to the instrument lighting .
Then there is the possibility that an alarm been fitted , some of the crappiest wiring ever is usually done here ,alarm installers are under the impression that they are electricians , they are NOT ! They butcher your car !

 

[Cathode]

Well, here's the latest. Found the rear light earth and cleaned it up. Fitted brand new bulbs all round plus checked all the wiring and found a loose red connector in one of the lights. I also noticed that all the bulbs on the NS rear were all black. Anyway, after all that I started it up and bingo! All working again. Stereo, lights and dash. Hoo bloody rah!!

Big thanks to Eng and Campbell. Your input was helpful and informed.

 

[campbellju]

Glad to hear you got it sorted. Well done

 

[Cathode]

Just to tie up this loose end. I say this as on another post i announced that the problem had come back.

Turns out it was a dodgy power battery cable. Now, i have the car at an engineering works and they have hunted down the problem. Its been re-wired which has resulted in everything working as it should as in, i don't have to rev the car in order for the dash and lights to work. I'm picking up the R this afternoon and they'll give me a walk around on it so i'll add any info that may be helpful for anyone else in the future who hopefully doesn't have this problem.

 

[johnny gtir]

Great when people post the end result to help others. So many fix the issue and the thread dose not have the fix so good on you for post

 

[Cathode]

Sorry for sleeping on this, i've been busy over the last few weeks.

Anyway, yes! it was the battery wire to the starter motor that was the issue. was not allowing the correct Voltage/Amps - whatever it is - to go through. Revving the car resulted in the correct level to be applied but then died off drawing it all from the battery as there was not enough to start the alternator. I'm probably getting this a little wrong so forgive me but the general gist is it wasn't getting the correct power to do what it needed to.

For some reason -that i won't explain because i'll make a hash of it- this resulted in the dash not working until the engine was revved.

he also found that i had, well the car had a few vacuum leaks which explained the slightly unsteady idle as it ticked over it would stutter from time to time with a "berrrrr-br-ber-ber-berrrbb-b-b-bub-berrrrrrr" if that makes any sense to anyone with a bit of imagination. The problem came from the balance pipes just behind the rocker cover. Got some smaller vacuum piping and tighter clips. Job done.