D2 coilover

youngsyp

Active Member
Those spring rates will be very stiff..... far too stiff for the road !

I went for 5.3 kg/mm front and 4 kg/mm rear and they have a very good feel. Slightly stiffer than stock dampers and lowered/uprated springs but, with mush better body control. Of course, you can also adjust damping levels !

When you by the D2's, make sure that the retailer gets the factory to match the damper valving to the spring rates. If they don't, the set up won't work very well !
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
Either your friend:

owns a different car
likes drifting
has 400kg of stereo equipment in the boot
just wants the car as low as possible
only drives on super smooth racetracks in the dry
doesn't unerstand what suspension is for

With 7kg in the back your chassis would flex more than the suspension, you might as well install steel bars
 

CruiseGTi-R

Member
D2's are great for the drift boys, terrible for road use, lethal in the wet.

I'm still waiting on someone to try softer springs to see if damping still works ok, can't be arsed with getting valving re-done.
 

youngsyp

Active Member
CruiseGTi-R said:
D2's are great for the drift boys, terrible for road use, lethal in the wet.
Rubbish !

CruiseGTi-R said:
I'm still waiting on someone to try softer springs to see if damping still works ok, can't be arsed with getting valving re-done.
You might want to keep up then chap ! ;-)

I've got softer springs on mine, and fitted them 2 or 3 months ago. I did a write up too. They did come valved for the springs though as, I specified spring rates when I ordered them and they come direct from the manufacturer !

If you're interested, I went for 5,3kg/mm springs at the front and 4 kg/mm springs at the rear.

On a couple of clicks of the dampers, they're only just as firm as an OE damper and lowered/uprated spring set up, I had previously.
After a few tweaks, with alignment, tyre pressure and damper settings, the car now handles very well, with good body control !

I'd like a bit more initial front end bite though so, next time I get it aligned, I'll go for a couple of mm toe out, as it's currently parallel up front !
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
tenfoloten said:
thanks boys;)

what is the max negative camber with D2?
Depends a lot on your ride height but also on how you bolt it all together

D2's are just a coilover, do a search on coilover setup and there is a load of information
 

antgtir

New Member
The D2's are easy to fit but i would recommend taking your time over them and getting things like the brake line brackets set in the right place etc.

The nice shiny metal (what look like stabaliser bars) bars that come with the set are the replacement ARB drop links for the rear, make sure you use thinner nuts than those supplied and place a split pin through the rod end as the lock nuts supplied didnt quite have enough bite for me, although thats probably because i put my poly bushes on.

Make sure that both sides on the front are built up in the same manner as if one is different to the other you will find a difference in ability for camber setting.

At the moment i have mine set at -1.5 camber on the front, probably would have gone for -2 however due to one side slightly different in set up -1.5 was the max, although this works very well.

I would have to agree with Paul and say that the D2's work well in most conditions, wet dry, bumpy, its just all dependent upon your setup and use etc.

Good luck and you wont be dissapointed.

Ant.

P.s. I cant remember exactly as it was at least over a week ago lol but i dropped the front and the rear by jim's (campbellju) recommended amount, do a search on his topics and you will find the info.
 
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antgtir

New Member
tenfoloten said:
have you got a pics with -1,5 front camber?
Do you mean of the top mounts so you can set them up like for like?

If that is the case i can be pretty sure it wont work mate :? you will find each position is specific to each GTiR as certain other things such as straightness of vehicle, wear of various bushes and position of fitment at bottom of strut etc will have an effect on the top mount position to obtain a -1.5 degree camber set on each front wheel.

I haven't got any pics to hand but if im able to get some ill post them up.

Ant.
 

antgtir

New Member
tenfoloten said:
Not sure on that one as the list of vehicles isn't including the pulsar GTiR only a pulsar of age up to and including 1990 by the looks of things which isn't correct for the GTiR.

Try the Whiteline Camber bolts, you could get them from www.rallynuts.co.uk or www.rallydesign.co.uk or maybe ebay if someone decides to sell theirs. With the whiteline ones at least you know you will get the GTiR specific set.

Ant.
 
antgtir said:
Do you mean of the top mounts so you can set them up like for like?

If that is the case i can be pretty sure it wont work mate :? you will find each position is specific to each GTiR as certain other things such as straightness of vehicle, wear of various bushes and position of fitment at bottom of strut etc will have an effect on the top mount position to obtain a -1.5 degree camber set on each front wheel.

I haven't got any pics to hand but if im able to get some ill post them up.

Ant.
i want a wheel pics..to see the vision impact about -1,5
 

antgtir

New Member
fubar andy said:
You can't really see the diffrence when you change the camber to -1.5.
^^^^^^ What Andy has said, there is only a slight look of camber alteration from a -1.5 setup.

I haven't got access to a camera until next week so cant show you at the mo, i will try and get a pic or two next week though.

Ant.
 
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