crank

[madmax]

spun a bearing the other day while at warp speed,
draining the oil 2 night, ready to have a look 2 morrow,
so just in case i need a crank or short block for sale

pm me or contact me on my mobile

07707255222

 

[campbellju]

Oh FFS, sorry to hear it matey. What is it with the bearings all starting to spin recently? We all used to be breaking pistons and now everyone needs cranks.

Good luck with sorting it out.

 

[stumo]

It could possibly be down to the use of ever increasing oil viscosites.

 

[Dooie Pop Pop]

spun a bearing the other day while at warp speed,
draining the oil 2 night, ready to have a look 2 morrow,
so just in case i need a crank or short block for sale

pm me or contact me on my mobile

07707255222

man that is sad news pm pulsarboby http://www.gtiroc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47248 he at least offers a guarantee on his parts and he' s pretty fairly priced.

truly gutted for you Martin:sad:

 

[madmax]

thanks but wrong mad max m8
im a m8 of mr gtir. ill give pulsarboby a bell

 

[neil240z]

Andy has an engine with a similar problem, he would let you have that bottom end cheap so you could get it all done and drop in yours?

Neil

 

[Dooie Pop Pop]

thanks but wrong mad max m8
im a m8 of mr gtir. ill give pulsarboby a bell

ohhhhhh weird mixed feelings here..... relief that martins car is ok, guilt cos im glad its you not him with a side order of :doh: :doh: :doh:


:lol:

if your a mate of Andy' s id be looking for sand mate:-D

 

[pulsarboby]

will have one shortly if you still need it then pm me

 

[campbellju]

It could possibly be down to the use of ever increasing oil viscosites.

That's what I'm thinking :?

After your discussion with the top bloke from Silkolene ages ago, wondering whether we should all be looking for a good 10W/40?

 

[youngsyp]

After your discussion with the top bloke from Silkolene ages ago, wondering whether we should all be looking for a good 10W/40?

Jim, why wouldn't a 5w/40 be suitable ?
That'll give you the benefit of a lower viscosity for cold starting and the lower viscosity, to match your suggestion, when hot !
From what I have read, this oil should still be suitable up to around 120 degrees C. Plus, the Evo guys seem to use it without issue !

I keep pestering Simon/Guy to confirm this but, they haven't replied to me to date !

 

[jpward]

Well i was using silkolene Pro 10w/40 but on memory oil temps were between 115-120 so i see that being the main cause for me to have done a bearing :doh:

What was everyone else using post a poll maybe?

 

[madmax]

the temp of my car was arround 120 130 when it went, and i use millers 10/60

 

[youngsyp]

Well i was using silkolene Pro 10w/40 but on memory oil temps were between 115-120 so i see that being the main cause for me to have done a bearing :doh:

What was everyone else using post a poll maybe?

Do you mean 10w/50 JP or, 5w/40 ? Silkolene don't make a 'Pro' packages 10w/40 oil ?!

When I said "up to 120 degrees C", I didn't mean it won't protect very well above that, just if you're constantly seein those sorts of temps, you should think about an oil that has a higher viscosity at those levels !

From what I gather, Stumo and Carl are implying that a 10w/50 and 10w/60 oil are too 'thick' for our needs. And that at higher temps, the oil is still too thick to lubricate the big end bearings well enough ?!

Of course, I could have got the wrong end of the stick !

On a separate but, related note. If I were you guys and getting those sort of temps, I'b be investing in an uprated air to air oil cooler and lower temp thermostat. Plus, possibly, a larger more efficient radiator.

 

[jpward]

Do you mean 10w/50 JP or, 5w/40 ? Silkolene don't make a 'Pro' packages 10w/40 oil ?!

When I said "up to 120 degrees C", I didn't mean it won't protect very well above that, just if you're constantly seein those sorts of temps, you should think about an oil that has a higher viscosity at those levels !

From what I gather, Stumo and Carl are implying that a 10w/50 and 10w/60 oil are too 'thick' for our needs. And that at higher temps, the oil is still too thick to lubricate the big end bearings well enough ?!

Of course, I could have got the wrong end of the stick !

On a separate but, related note. If I were you guys and getting those sort of temps, I'b be investing in an uprated air to air oil cooler and possibly, a larger more efficient radiator.

The ironic thing was I had an oil cooler but it was not fitted will be shortly dooh :doh:

Yes I stand corrected Paul it was 5W/40 was getting mixed up with the bike/quad oils

Anything over 100 C and the oil will start to loose its oxidation disproportionately to the rate of temperature increase but to cold (85C) and you loose power ~1-3% through oil drag so industry states 95C is a good target temp to achieve.

With higher viscosities and in particular the oils being slightly more resistant to flow the problem then lies in that the oil finds it harder to penetrate tighter clearances as in the case of the bearing shells and it is said that higher oils such as 60 grades find it hard to dissipate heat and de-aeration becomes a problem.


I played around with the bike oil and now found semi-synthetic works better for it!

 

[campbellju]

the temp of my car was arround 120 130 when it went, and i use millers 10/60

I think that's a bit hot for any oil/engine

Its the 60 the guy advised against, he was saying he had helped with a touring car that kept lunching bearings. After various detailed calculations he decided the oil was too thick for the bearings. He did the same calcs for our R's and said 40 was most appropriate, If there was a 45 then that might have been spot on but there isn't. Stu, did all the leg work, I just heard/read the results. I've been running a 50 but its been niggling me since I heard.

The 5/(x) have been a bit too thin for our cars too. Other owners will comment but I know people complained about high oil usage. I've not tried it so can only speak from other peopl's opinons.

Opie oils will be speaking with the same person at Silkolene but probably haven't measured all the bearings/gaps off our cars like Stu did. I mentioned it in a post but they didn't pick me up on it so I've not bothered to argue. I think they're more interested in marketing their products than answering technical questions that don't result in a sale. John Rowland is the Cheif Chemist at Silkolene Fuchs recommended the 40 rather than the 50 for our bearing size. I believe he is also the chap who authors the posts that Opie market. This is a guess but I've seen his posts elsewhere that has the same whit and his name at the bottom. It could be they are both getting them from someone else.

I don't know and I don't claim to understand it all either but here is a man who does:

> 2 inch bearings are BIG, so rubbing speed at 7500 is 1472
> metres/min, increasing to 1570 at 8000RPM. Very close to the notorious
> Andy Burton Cosworth /Opel V6 at 11500RPM, which gave 1600metres/min,
> and so much trouble until we put him on thinner oil! So, bearing (!)
> that in mind, I'd go for the 5W/40.
> JR

I have some Silkolene 5W/40 in stock for an old NA car I had. I've not used it because of other people saying about the thinner oils giving low pressure and disapperaing out the exhaust.

IIRC, Nissan recommended a 10W/30 originally for our cars.

That's as much as I know.

Back to the original topic, I'm wondering whether the 10W/60 menas dead bottom end?

 

[stumo]

well said Jim, i couldn't be arsed to type all that.

Just to add, Mobil 1 (whatever the grade) is still only group 3, a full ester based oil will be group 4.

There are some race only group 4 stock oils out there, don't be tempted to use them as they just don't have the additives for long term use (apart from they're very costly).

 

[campbellju]

You've already done it once which is how I know ;-)

 

[stumo]

i was letting the dweebs know:roll:

 

[youngsyp]

I think that's a bit hot for any oil/engine

Its the 60 the guy advised against, he was saying he had helped with a touring car that kept lunching bearings. After various detailed calculations he decided the oil was too thick for the bearings. He did the same calcs for our R's and said 40 was most appropriate, If there was a 45 then that might have been spot on but there isn't. Stu, did all the leg work, I just heard/read the results. I've been running a 50 but its been niggling me since I heard.

The 5/(x) have been a bit too thin for our cars too. Other owners will comment but I know people complained about high oil usage. I've not tried it so can only speak from other peopl's opinons.

Opie oils will be speaking with the same person at Silkolene but probably haven't measured all the bearings/gaps off our cars like Stu did. I mentioned it in a post but they didn't pick me up on it so I've not bothered to argue. I think they're more interested in marketing their products than answering technical questions that don't result in a sale. John Rowland is the Cheif Chemist at Silkolene Fuchs recommended the 40 rather than the 50 for our bearing size. I believe he is also the chap who authors the posts that Opie market. This is a guess but I've seen his posts elsewhere that has the same whit and his name at the bottom. It could be they are both getting them from someone else.

I don't know and I don't claim to understand it all either but here is a man who does:

> 2 inch bearings are BIG, so rubbing speed at 7500 is 1472
> metres/min, increasing to 1570 at 8000RPM. Very close to the notorious
> Andy Burton Cosworth /Opel V6 at 11500RPM, which gave 1600metres/min,
> and so much trouble until we put him on thinner oil! So, bearing (!)
> that in mind, I'd go for the 5W/40.
> JR

I have some Silkolene 5W/40 in stock for an old NA car I had. I've not used it because of other people saying about the thinner oils giving low pressure and disapperaing out the exhaust.

IIRC, Nissan recommended a 10W/30 originally for our cars.

That's as much as I know.

Back to the original topic, I'm wondering whether the 10W/60 menas dead bottom end?

Thanks Jim, good info and certainly food for thought !