To cut a short story long, I've been struggling on and off for about a year now in getting my PowerFC to work on the car. It used to work but would idle badly and at 2000rpm it would have a fuel cut. Switch back to the standard ECU and it would work fine with no fault codes. The only funny was the car ran rich above 5000rpm at a recent RR day and could be a symptom?
After much scratching off heads I took it to RC developments who where very helpful in that they confirmed the correct operation of the ECU in another car ruled out a few queries in my mind and advised me to have a go myself as it could take them up to 10 hours to solve which I thought was fair. I was also told that the Power FC doesn't have fault codes, if it finds something like an AFM problem, it just shutsdown. I experimented with that and they're right.
Being and Electrical Engineer I fanicied having a go and have since ripped out all the dash re-newing earths, continuity checked all the wires, checked the earths and methodically checked everything using a multimeter. I can even tell you my capacitor in the resistor block is 2.02uF for what its worth. On a positive note, my sidelights don't come on anymore when I hit the brake :roll: :lol:
I believe the crank angle sensor is at fault with the PowerFC and I'm going to ask Wayne nicely about borrowing his but unless his is new it could create the same symptoms so I thought I'd post for verification on my findings.
Waffle over, the symptoms:
==================
On the old ECU rotating the crank angle sensor manually, the 180deg timing is notmally 0v and goes to 5.11V on the hole. For the 1 deg timing it is normally 4V and drops to about 1V but I couldn't gently get it to hold there and it always goes straight back to 4V. Quickly rotating the sensor and it averages 2.3V. All cylinders and injectors fire in order etc.
On the New ECU doing the same, the 180 deg timing works fine on the multimeter as before but the 1deg timing is normally 5.11V again rather than 4V and does drop to around 1V being gentle but turning it quickly averages 2.75V.
My thinking is there are 2 photo diodes and A to D converters in the CAS and the ones for the 1deg signal is rounding off the pulses. I'm, also guessing the 180deg time (That on inspection looks like 90deg) is used for calculating engine rpm and that explains why the RPM reading has always worked fine.
Can anyone verify what I'm thinking before I start just swapping bits that may or may not give me any good information.
Also, I read a new CAS is £462 from Nissan!!! Are there another new alternatives like Blueprint etc. Can the old ones be re-conned?
Thanks for reading,
Jim
After much scratching off heads I took it to RC developments who where very helpful in that they confirmed the correct operation of the ECU in another car ruled out a few queries in my mind and advised me to have a go myself as it could take them up to 10 hours to solve which I thought was fair. I was also told that the Power FC doesn't have fault codes, if it finds something like an AFM problem, it just shutsdown. I experimented with that and they're right.
Being and Electrical Engineer I fanicied having a go and have since ripped out all the dash re-newing earths, continuity checked all the wires, checked the earths and methodically checked everything using a multimeter. I can even tell you my capacitor in the resistor block is 2.02uF for what its worth. On a positive note, my sidelights don't come on anymore when I hit the brake :roll: :lol:
I believe the crank angle sensor is at fault with the PowerFC and I'm going to ask Wayne nicely about borrowing his but unless his is new it could create the same symptoms so I thought I'd post for verification on my findings.
Waffle over, the symptoms:
==================
On the old ECU rotating the crank angle sensor manually, the 180deg timing is notmally 0v and goes to 5.11V on the hole. For the 1 deg timing it is normally 4V and drops to about 1V but I couldn't gently get it to hold there and it always goes straight back to 4V. Quickly rotating the sensor and it averages 2.3V. All cylinders and injectors fire in order etc.
On the New ECU doing the same, the 180 deg timing works fine on the multimeter as before but the 1deg timing is normally 5.11V again rather than 4V and does drop to around 1V being gentle but turning it quickly averages 2.75V.
My thinking is there are 2 photo diodes and A to D converters in the CAS and the ones for the 1deg signal is rounding off the pulses. I'm, also guessing the 180deg time (That on inspection looks like 90deg) is used for calculating engine rpm and that explains why the RPM reading has always worked fine.
Can anyone verify what I'm thinking before I start just swapping bits that may or may not give me any good information.
Also, I read a new CAS is £462 from Nissan!!! Are there another new alternatives like Blueprint etc. Can the old ones be re-conned?
Thanks for reading,
Jim
:lol:
