car wont start

Jonesy

Jonesy

Member
hi my brother has just bought a pulsar with the valves bent in the head. Engine has been rebuilt and fitted to the car. The car is turning over and sparking, The fuel pump wasnt running and the relay is fine i bridged out the relay and put a new earth on the fuel pump. Now im getting fuel and a spark but it wont fire. any ideas.
 
Jonesy

Jonesy

Member
its getting a good enough spark and plenty of fuel i lined up the marks that some one had put on the dizy its not even trying to fire
 
stumo

stumo

Active Member
one is the reverse switch connector and i think the other is the ign amp(i'm probibly wrong)
 
neil240z

neil240z

Member
There are two connectors on the gearbox that can easily be mistaken and connected up wrong, Mr GTiR knows more than me about these, but i know if there connected the wrong way around the car will not start, ADR motorsport did this to his car and ended up asking him why it wouldnt run, lol. PM Andy and he will be able to tell you which they are.

regards

Neil
 
P

pulsarboby

Guest
the multiplugs are right. they are the dizzy and reverse light switch (same connections) but that isnt your problem here!

if you are getting a good spark at the plugs and the fuel pump is priming, ie fuel pumped to rail! then the prob will more than likely lie with timing.
try loosening the dizzy bolts and turning the distributor round in both directions a couple of degrees at a time, then crank her over;-)
untill the car sounds like it wants to fire.
if this doesnt work, then heat the plugs up with a blow torch and try it again, 'spark plugs that is':lol:
if still nothing then im afraid your engine timing is more than likely out by possibly one maybe two teeth!
any more than that and you would have had valve / piston contact again!
 
D

DannyGTI-R

New Member
I also had the same problem when refitting my engine. There are two plugs that are the same 6 pin type, As said before one goes to the gear box and the other ign amp which is bolted to the std bracket that holds the top mount intercooler on next to TPS.

I messed around for days trying to sort this problem then found these to plugs that looked the same size, switched them around then first turn of the key Brroooommmm. Big Big smile....

Hope this helps.
 
Jonesy

Jonesy

Member
Cheers for the help. He found the problem last night. One of the locating pins for one of the cam shaft pulleys had sheered. Which has probably been the original fault causing the pistons to hit the valves last time. He's done a compression check 2 cylinders were 9 bar and 2 around 4.5 bar, hoping there low due to the timing being out and the valves not in there correct position. Just waiting for spares now.
 
Jonesy

Jonesy

Member
Got the car running now thanks to pulsarboby for a new camshaft.
Having problems bleeding the clutch when pumping the pedal the fluid level just rises and falls in the top up bottle, doesnt seem to be much getting down to the bleed nipple.
Also when pumping the pedal the pedal stays on the floor when pushed down then has to be lifted back up, doesn't spring back up itslef.
Any ideas slave/master cylinder ?
 
Y

youngsyp

Active Member
Jonesy said:
Got the car running now thanks to pulsarboby for a new camshaft.
Having problems bleeding the clutch when pumping the pedal the fluid level just rises and falls in the top up bottle, doesnt seem to be much getting down to the bleed nipple.
Also when pumping the pedal the pedal stays on the floor when pushed down then has to be lifted back up, doesn't spring back up itslef.
Any ideas slave/master cylinder ?
Click to expand...
First off, it's normal for the pedal to stay on the floor when bleeding the clutch. This happens as the clutch disengagement arm (what the rod from the slave cylinder pushes) isn't moving so, doesn't have the clutch cover springs to push it back !

As for the fluid not getting to the slave bleed nipple, have you checked for clutch fluid on the drivers side carpet ? It could be that the master cylinder seals have gone and so, it's not moving the fluid around ?! Is the clutch hose (attached to the slave cylinder) leaking ?
 
P

pulsarboby

Guest
agree with young paul there!

if the clutch masters leaking on the pressure seal it would cause the fluid to rise and fall in the reservoir as the pressure would be backing up to the reservoir!


oh and your welcome mr jonesey;-)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Jonesy

Jonesy

Member
Cars now up running after stealing my master cylinder. Took it out for a spin, seems to be overfuelling very badly any ideas, the plug leads are pretty fooked think thats why its missing slightly going to try mine on it. Would this also cause it to overfuel, if not any ideas.
Cheers
 
Fast Guy

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
Is the compression OK now?

If it is over fuelling then I'd look at the MAF area to start with ie connector pins or regrounding.

Can you see black smoke or is it running rough? If running rough, there's always a chance you did some damage when starting the engine after refitting when you still had the sheared locating pin.
 
Jonesy

Jonesy

Member
It seems to be idleing fine, so didnt think there was any engine damage. Going to do a compression check anyway. Going to check out the MAF later on which wire is the earth on the plug. Doesn't seem to be any black smoke, but the plugs are very black.
Cheers
 
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