car wont start after rebuild help please

[gsk2000uk]

Hi all im in need of some advice please, I have spent the last few months rebuilding my Gtir but it now wont start.
Engine wise i changed one piston but used all original rods and replaced all rings and bearings, i also replaced all the engine bolts and nuts, new gaskets through out inc a metal HG and using original maf and injectors.

I timed the engine up using the crank keyway facing the dist cap with piston 1 at tdc as the crank pulley has twisted so the timing lines are no longer in the correct place,
The ex cam is at 8-9 teeth up with the keyway at 12 then there is 20 pins to the mating mark on the inlet cam and the inlet keyway is at 10 oclock with 5 teeth up as per the pic below i can also confirm that the rotor arm is facing lead 1, the only note i would say is under the rotor arm the large piston 1 tdc mark isnt underneath the CPS but just before it at this point but as far as i can see if the the pulley is correct on the ex cam then there is no way it can be as its fixed in place.

Fuel wise im running a 044 inline pump with an adjustable fuel reg which is holding 3.5 bar with ignition on (my fuel tank has been removed), ive tested the fuel in and out lines and can confirm that fuel is getting through fine and they are the correct way round.

There is spark all the way from the coil to all 4 ht leads and all plugs are ok,
I can see we have oil pressure and compression from my after-market gauges aswell.

When i turn the car over it cranks fine and splutters everynow and again when we have the throttle fully open but thats it.
I have ran new earth leads through out the car inc two large one to the engine so it cant e that and i have also checked i have the correct plug to the CPS not the reverse plug.

All fuses are ok so im pritty much stuck at this point if any one has any advice i would be grateful as i am suppose to be taking the car tot he Nurburgring in May and at this rate i wont even have it ran in.

Thanks
Gav

 

[Jon Olds]

On no starters I go back to basics. Not saying this is what you should do, but this is what I would do;
Easy start: spray some down the throttle body. Engine runs better or attempts to start, then its an injector firing issue
Compression: quick check to make sure you have some.
Then plug out and rocker box and dizzy cap off.
TDC on no. 1 and compression stroke and both valves must be shut, along with no. 4 exhaust closing and inlet valve opening ('rocking')
While this happening the rotor arm must point to lead no. 1
Hope this helps
Jon

 

[gsk2000uk]

Thanks Jon my initial thoughts were the timing but ive done it 3 times now and it always ends up in the same position, i did a voltage check to the injectors and got a good reading on crank is there another way to check them?
Ive managed to get hold of another good crank pulley thanks to another member so ill put that on and check the timing again then ill have ago with the easy start.

 

[splmum]

You might also check the 2 largish grey identical plugs on the distributor and gearbox (reverse light). With these reversed it has caused engines to not start, reverse the plugs and they engine fires straight up.

 

[gsk2000uk]

Thanks Splmum ive double checked them and they are the correct way i don't get any spark with hem the wrong way round

 

[Jon Olds]

As in my write up, the inlet valve and exhaust valve on no 4 pot with no1 firing at TDC should have an equal amount of lift. Assuming the cam timing is right. Its a goof check, along with the rotor arm position
Jon

 

[stugtir300]

Burn it,problem solved,ha ha.