Bleeding brakes.

dencon

Member
Had to remove rear brakes, strip clean and free up. These are front brakes used on rear. Drained out all fluid, and refilled with new. Can,t for the life of me get a hard pedal. Pump up hard, release pedal and all gone. I use air line at 18lbs and can usually do this myself. However had Cliff inside pumping away using lots of fluid but still no pedal. Car is fitted with hyd handbrake. Taken off master and inspected. This looks in lovely condition with perfect bore, and seals seam to be ok looking at them with mag glass. Tried every coupling looking for a bubble under pressure. ANY IDEAS. den.
 

dencon

Member
Danny. The pipes go straight from the master to the wheels. The bias is with a lever beside handbrake. this is adjustable.
 

MarkTurbo

Well-Known Member
Have you tried gravity bleeding them? That's how I do mine, it takes a long time but usually gets rid of all the air.
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
No leaks anywhere? If you've had the calipers apart and back together, are they lines all sealing? - I'm just trying to start with the obvious, especially if the master cylinder is in good condition and there's little else in your system.
 

dencon

Member
On the master cyl their are fittings screwed into both front and rear outlets. They are about 40mm long x 22mm, with my braided lines going into them. What do these do,, it looks like a valve. There is also a bleed nipple on side of barrel, which I have of course bled. If I close the rear bias control I seam to get a good pedal. This is all on my lhd car.
All I have done is drain old fluid, strip rear callipers, clean and free up sliders, and refit. As mentioned before, I am using normal front nissan brakes on the rear. Spent hours on it today and completely fed up with it.
 

dencon

Member
Well yip ee, back on the brake bleeding tomorrow. Does anyone know what the contraptions are screwed into the two outlets on master cylinder?.
 

dencon

Member
I had one off and had a look at it. If it was an adaptor to take the hose it would have a plain hole through it. These have some sort of valve inside. I can,t see any way of taking these apart. I would like to know what they do.
 

Juggs

Member
Sorry i can offer no assistance with your problem.
Got me wondering how hard it is to adapt your front brake set-up to be used on the rear?
I have just got a set of hi-specs for the front so will have a spare set of front calipers, disks & hangers so would be good to put them to some use.
Any info appreciated
 

dencon

Member
Sorry i can offer no assistance with your problem.
Got me wondering how hard it is to adapt your front brake set-up to be used on the rear?
I have just got a set of hi-specs for the front so will have a spare set of front calipers, disks & hangers so would be good to put them to some use.
Any info appreciated
You will need steel brackets made up to carry the calipers to give you the correct spacing, also you will not have a handbrake unless you fit an hydraulic one.
With ref to my problem, I now have a decent pedal, although not yet tested around yard. A problem when not road legal.Still not sure where the trouble was, but it was somewhere between damper valve, Tilton proportioning valve, Tilton seven positioning pressure valve, hyd handbrake cylinder, and rear calipers. Is it all needed I ask myself.
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
Can you get a hydraulic handbrake through an MOT? - I've got a feeling you can, but it requires you to fit line locks to keep the handbrake engaged.
As you say; not a problem on a hill climb car.
 
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