cant compete with 400 for a complete engine.
the best i can do is 400 for the bottom end or 600 for the engine, but you will need to put a new h/g on it!
the car was running and drove with good oil pressure and no knocks or rattles, but coolant pipes were pressurising!
40k miles (unless he has documented history from new to back this up) i would take that with a pinch of salt.
if the car had only done that mileage then why is it being broke?
a genuine 40k miler should be in near mint condition, including bodywork and interior;-)
it really annoys me that a lot of people do not tell the truth, when selling stuff like this, as its a bugger of a job to do, and they have no respect for the work and money that it costs to do. theres nothing more annoying than fitting an engine or a box, only to find that what you have just bought and fitted is nothing but a pile of crap, makes you feel like taking a sledge hammer to your car and smashing the living daylights out of it:twisted:
it makes no difference to me whether you buy my one or not, but just make sure before you part with your cash;-)
if that mileage is 100% genuine, then snap it off him as that is a good price, but bring a compression tester with you, if engine is not in car running, then turn it over by hand a few revolutions and do a comp test on it,(you will still get a reading on comp), would also be worth checking big end bearings before fitting engine, as it will save you a lot of heartache when fitted!
