500hp?

[gtirjoey]

Hello been away from the scene for a good few years now, but have the gtir well and truly pumping theough my veins again.
Currently running 400hp on a 3071 700cc injectors and forged bottom end stock head....
What do i need to break the 500 mark? Is just turbo manifold injectors and a remap?
Was gonna go the vvt route but gone off the idea as off late

 

[petelesta]

You'll struggle on stock ignition system for 500bhp, could get an ignition amplifier but there are a few other options, and at that point you'll wanna consider a standalone Ecu. These are starting points, you'll also want to consider the right cams etc it's quite a comprehensive list but it's the difference between cheaply knocking out 500bhp or building it reliably hope this helps

 

[The Doc]

Speak to ed at fusion..more sr20 and pulsars running 450 to over 600hp than anyone else..main things you will need are as above tbh..ecu is the main thing over 500hp as you have no safety on nistune and the like .

 

[gtirjoey]

Okay cheers for advise i know theres a few people running that power these days so just want to get a good idea on what i need ed from fusion will be doing all mapping so that part will be down to him!

 

[red reading]

Ecu, coil on plug ign or similar,3" exhaust,264 or similar cams, tubular manifold and external wasgate on a t3 flange with gt3076 or similar size turbo , decent clutch and gearbox and a ed to set it up.

 

[petelesta]

Can't be giving away all the secrets dan

Ecu, coil on plug ign or similar,3" exhaust,264 or similar cams, tubular manifold and external wasgate on a t3 flange with gt3076 or similar size turbo , decent clutch and gearbox and a ed to set it up.

 

[Mad]

Very useful guide - http://www.fusion-motorsport.co.uk/tech/tuning-guides/tuning-nissan/pulsar-gti-r

 

[red reading]

Well you never know lads...i could give out all the specs and then you can all have reliable power if you follow it, ed is the best lad to map them and if you cannot do it then get him to set the cams too.

 

[fubar andy]

Spill it boyo!

 

[red reading]

Which bits do you want to know? Whst clutches..what gearset...what head work..

 

[red reading]

Ok will start with cams...rule no 1 use the cams to suit the rev range of your car...fitting really aggresive cams is a waste of time on a car that has a low rev limit..260 degree ish suit almost every one who has a stock rev limit..all that happens is you will narrow the usefull power range if you fit big cams with big overlap and duration.

 

[red reading]

Rule 2 pistons...use the correct grade of alloy for your goal...i.e most people fit forged pistons...how many know that there are differing grades of forged alloy to suit differant power levels..higher power equals harder grade alloy and bigger piston to bore clearence...which means faster wear rate and the engine will use oil...till its being used as it should be....my own car when driven slowly will use oil...when thrashed on track running 110 degree oil temps and 93 degree water temps uses none and the oil stays clean.

 

[red reading]

Rule 3. Oil grade and temps...fact oil should run at 100 degrees and above not below...why? So that it can evaporate the moisture and petrol dilutants in it...if it does'nt you will be wearing your engine out as quickly as using cheap oil due to the above and also from the oil being thicker than intended use at the correct tempreture.

 

[red reading]

Rule 4 cam timing and type and valve clearences will affect compression test readings...some people think there engine is worn out when it is not due to doing a compression test...leak down testing is the only reliable method to test engine wear without stripping it down, if your cam chain is stretched it can also change the readings aswell by moving the cams..the more the timing in duration and overlap the less the comp test will show in pressure..this is static compression...your engine runs on dynamic compression when it is running.

 

[red reading]

Questions before the next sermon.

 

[fubar andy]

Questions before the next sermon.

Ok will start with cams...rule no 1 use the cams to suit the rev range of your car...fitting really aggresive cams is a waste of time on a car that has a low rev limit..260 degree ish suit almost every one who has a stock rev limit..all that happens is you will narrow the usefull power range if you fit big cams with big overlap and duration.

Now this *is* interesting!

 

[red reading]

Well that is to do with velocity of gasses...something that happens with big ports and cams is that at low rpm you get reversion of gases back in to the inlet and low port velocity...meaning a poor idle and the engine not being efficient and there for the turbo will spool slower or later in the rev range...m

 

[Fusion Ed]

As said 500hp requires a GOOD ecu and much closer attention to the areas that usually restrict power. I'll be totally honest that I'm not really interested in doing 500+ on a pulsar unless it has an ECU like the Syvecs S6, Its going to cost you around 2500 fitted, and it is true that other ECUs can do 500hp+ BUT almost nothing will come close to the control that the S6 ecu will bring to the car.

 

[warpspeed]

Don't get this kind of in depth discussion with actual facts being discussed elsewhere do we...

 

[Mad]

As said 500hp requires a GOOD ecu and much closer attention to the areas that usually restrict power. I'll be totally honest that I'm not really interested in doing 500+ on a pulsar unless it has an ECU like the Syvecs S6, Its going to cost you around 2500 fitted, and it is true that other ECUs can do 500hp+ BUT almost nothing will come close to the control that the S6 ecu will bring to the car.

As Ed said.

I posted up differences between Apexi Power FC vs Syvecs S6

http://gtiroc.com/index.php?threads/apexi-power-fc-vs-syvecs-s6.89224/