Gutted to be having to do this but im selling my Nissan Pulsar GTIR due to moving away for work and the car is no use for me anymore.
It starts, idles, drives and stops perfectly. The car has absolutely no problems driving. It has done roughly 135000 KM which is roughly 83000 miles. It is MOT'd until September.
The exciting stuff;
It has fully adjustable BC coilovers which are set up for track.
Whiteline anti roll bars front and rear.
Whiteline strut braces front and rear.
Uprated walbro fuel pump
Hks boost controller
Blitz turbo timer
Apexi SAFC
Toyo proxes T1R all round and almost new.
Quick release front bumper
3" turbo back exhaust with decat (doesn't need a cat for MOT due to age)
Induction kit.
Front mount intercooler.
4 paddle clutch.
Recently serviced using 5w50 oil.
Gearbox and transfer box have 70w95 millers oil.
I've owned the car since October and since then I have had it mapped and setup from HQ performance with before and after printout.
Had a refurbished gearbox fitted around 1000 miles ago.
New clutch slave cylinder fitted in December.
Bad points.
Steering is slightly off, so will need aligned.
1 alloy needs refurbished the rest are fine but could do with a refurb also.
Some rust but nothing huge.
Some lacquer peel on front bumper.
The car has always been left to heat up and cool down.
On low boost 0.7 bar it ran 240ish at the fly and on High boost 1.2 bar it ran 340ish at fly. Printouts read the power at wheels.
The car runs perfectly, starts first time everytime at 11/12 volts, idles steady wherever it settles between 1500 and 1800 rpm. It stops fine (and I will include new EBC discs and pads with the sale for the right price) it is always left to heat up before it goes into boost and the turbo is always left to time out even at 3 in the morning (my neighbours love me ). I forgot to mention in the ad it also has a HKS dump valve. all photos of rust (it's nothing major, the doors look worse than they are, couple of them are surface rust and the others are the arches which could be done with a tidy up) and a photo of the bad alloy (I had a small accident in the snow where I hit a kerb and took a chunk out of the alloy which sent the steering out also)The car pulls slightly to the left and the steering is out but it's nothing that affects the driveability of the car. The bad alloy I've had balanced to the best I could without refurb and put it on the back, you can't feel any excessive vibration through the car.
On changing the gearbox it was filled with 75w90 millers oil (recommended by sponge blob fat pants at gti r use-less which is renowned for their awful work on the pulsars) the gearbox was bought from gti r use-less also and I have the receipt, I also bought a new rear diff at the same time to keep as a spare. It's MOT until September. The underside could do with being re undersealed but doesn't require any welding, I have a mate who is a welder by trade and welds a lot of cars who has seen it when the box was changed roughly a month ago. The tyres are almost new and still have plenty of tread on them they are Toyo proxes T1R and stick to the road VERY well. There is no leaks from the car at all.
Recently changed the oil and filter at same time as the gearbox. Filled with 5w50 fully synthetic race oil.
It has been mapped and setup by HQ performance who are in Scotland and they setup alot of cars that compete at Knockhill super lap Scotland (check reviews if need be) Everything that's been done to it is stated in that ad.
I would have had everything fixed up but I was made redundant and haven't had the money to do anything to it.The bumper has lacquer peel on it from what I can only guess as stone chips by the look of it. (There's a bypass being built up here so the roads aren't the cleanest atm) the other piece of lacquer peel has started due to a ratchet strap being kicked up from a lorry I was behind and the scratches along the bottom of the bumper are from road bumps (my house is littered with them I can't get out without avoiding them and one is a beast of a thing)I can't think of anything else bad about the car other than it has the rear interior stripped out and the side windows are plastic which you can see in the photos. They have been seated properly and unless a power washer is held on them they don't leak. I have the spare gearbox which needs refurbed as the syncs have gone so it's not the worst thing that could happen. I don't think I've missed anything but I'll gladly help if you have anything you want to know
It starts, idles, drives and stops perfectly. The car has absolutely no problems driving. It has done roughly 135000 KM which is roughly 83000 miles. It is MOT'd until September.
The exciting stuff;
It has fully adjustable BC coilovers which are set up for track.
Whiteline anti roll bars front and rear.
Whiteline strut braces front and rear.
Uprated walbro fuel pump
Hks boost controller
Blitz turbo timer
Apexi SAFC
Toyo proxes T1R all round and almost new.
Quick release front bumper
3" turbo back exhaust with decat (doesn't need a cat for MOT due to age)
Induction kit.
Front mount intercooler.
4 paddle clutch.
Recently serviced using 5w50 oil.
Gearbox and transfer box have 70w95 millers oil.
I've owned the car since October and since then I have had it mapped and setup from HQ performance with before and after printout.
Had a refurbished gearbox fitted around 1000 miles ago.
New clutch slave cylinder fitted in December.
Bad points.
Steering is slightly off, so will need aligned.
1 alloy needs refurbished the rest are fine but could do with a refurb also.
Some rust but nothing huge.
Some lacquer peel on front bumper.
The car has always been left to heat up and cool down.
On low boost 0.7 bar it ran 240ish at the fly and on High boost 1.2 bar it ran 340ish at fly. Printouts read the power at wheels.
The car runs perfectly, starts first time everytime at 11/12 volts, idles steady wherever it settles between 1500 and 1800 rpm. It stops fine (and I will include new EBC discs and pads with the sale for the right price) it is always left to heat up before it goes into boost and the turbo is always left to time out even at 3 in the morning (my neighbours love me ). I forgot to mention in the ad it also has a HKS dump valve. all photos of rust (it's nothing major, the doors look worse than they are, couple of them are surface rust and the others are the arches which could be done with a tidy up) and a photo of the bad alloy (I had a small accident in the snow where I hit a kerb and took a chunk out of the alloy which sent the steering out also)The car pulls slightly to the left and the steering is out but it's nothing that affects the driveability of the car. The bad alloy I've had balanced to the best I could without refurb and put it on the back, you can't feel any excessive vibration through the car.
On changing the gearbox it was filled with 75w90 millers oil (recommended by sponge blob fat pants at gti r use-less which is renowned for their awful work on the pulsars) the gearbox was bought from gti r use-less also and I have the receipt, I also bought a new rear diff at the same time to keep as a spare. It's MOT until September. The underside could do with being re undersealed but doesn't require any welding, I have a mate who is a welder by trade and welds a lot of cars who has seen it when the box was changed roughly a month ago. The tyres are almost new and still have plenty of tread on them they are Toyo proxes T1R and stick to the road VERY well. There is no leaks from the car at all.
Recently changed the oil and filter at same time as the gearbox. Filled with 5w50 fully synthetic race oil.
It has been mapped and setup by HQ performance who are in Scotland and they setup alot of cars that compete at Knockhill super lap Scotland (check reviews if need be) Everything that's been done to it is stated in that ad.
I would have had everything fixed up but I was made redundant and haven't had the money to do anything to it.The bumper has lacquer peel on it from what I can only guess as stone chips by the look of it. (There's a bypass being built up here so the roads aren't the cleanest atm) the other piece of lacquer peel has started due to a ratchet strap being kicked up from a lorry I was behind and the scratches along the bottom of the bumper are from road bumps (my house is littered with them I can't get out without avoiding them and one is a beast of a thing)I can't think of anything else bad about the car other than it has the rear interior stripped out and the side windows are plastic which you can see in the photos. They have been seated properly and unless a power washer is held on them they don't leak. I have the spare gearbox which needs refurbed as the syncs have gone so it's not the worst thing that could happen. I don't think I've missed anything but I'll gladly help if you have anything you want to know
