1 bar to 1.2 bar ??

[r5ben]

got my car set up to 1 bar but what would be needed to go upto 1.2 bar ??
im on standard internals ,turbo ,ecu and top mount cooler
i take it i would need a front mount but would i need a ecu and uprated turbo etc and would the pistions take it ??



8)

 

[Shaun]

Hi mate,to goto 1.2bar you would need some type of fuel controller i.e.Apexi SAFC2,Power FC,Uni Chip and the like.You will also need an uprated fuel pump and an uprated clutch.You can run 1.2bar with the top mount without a problem as when Duey's was setup he still had his topmount and no problems,but a front mount would help makesure eveything was as it should be even on the hotter days,standard turbo is fine up until around 1.4bar and as long as it is setup properly the standard pistons will handle it without any problems

 

[Mr GTiR]

i ran 1.2 bar with standard internals and turbo. The only thing i had was HKS FCON and Walbro for fuel and a f/m/i/c. It made 297bhp with a knackard turbo :lol:

 

[Fire & skill]

all you'll need is cold plugs and an uprated fuel pump - people are too scared to realise that 1.2 bar is poss on std tubby and internals. dont blame me though if the box pops :lol:

 

[r5ben]

like i say my car is set up for 1 bar so i have the walbro 255lt pump and a uprated helix clutch thats only done 300 miles ,
ive just got new iridem plugs in and the turbo is good so im hoping that it will take it
it was just the pistions , top mount and fueling that i was thinking about and didnt know if i would need a power fc etc but ive been looking into a chip so maybe that would help as well

so all in all if i have the car set up proper ie fueling theres nothin to say i couldnt run 1.2bar with a top mount and standard pistion ?? :shock:

just hope the gearbox will hold !! :?

 

[Fire & skill]

i ran my first R at 1.3 bar, had absolutely no problems at all, i had an hks evc3 boost controller, helix clutch, uprated fuel pump. thats all std internals. top mount etc. basically the top mount is the best place for the IC - as long as you can get it to stay cool, which is why most people move it to the front. the SR20 is a strong engine, the only reason you need forged pistons is if you ever get preignition, which is more likely when running higher boost - if you use cold plugs this shouldnt be a problem.

if you want to play it safe - get an apexi safc, forged pistons. etc.

but like i say - i had no problems at all. theres a few on here who have ran at 1.4 bar for years with no probs.

 

[AJ4]

Keep an eye on the AFM, it can max out at 1 bar... some people have used the standard one up to 1.4 bar though, so I think its just a bit of luck !

 

[jiw]

Hopefully i have a good one then reads around 80%@ 1.00 on the safc, hopefully 1.2 will be ok on the standard maf and injectors

 

[r5ben]

what sort of probs do you get with the standard maf and afm ?? what goes wrong there ??
didnt think you could swop them unless you had a uprated ecu ?? or am i being thick

 

[AJ4]

The standard MAF ( AFM ) can only sense so much air before it maxes out, normally around 4.2 Volts. It will go up to 5 volts, but after 4.2 Volts the air / volt curve is so flat that its practically useless.

Suppose it reaches maximum at 5000 rpm, that means that even if you rev it to 7000 rpm the ECU still thinks its flowing 5000rpm and it runs lean <bang>

You can't change it for a bigger one unless you have some means of changing the fuelling to compensate, not necessarily a whole ECU though, just an Apexi AFC or something.

 

[kizzyturbo4x4]

The standard MAF ( AFM ) can only sense so much air before it maxes out, normally around 4.2 Volts. It will go up to 5 volts, but after 4.2 Volts the air / volt curve is so flat that its practically useless.

Suppose it reaches maximum at 5000 rpm, that means that even if you rev it to 7000 rpm the ECU still thinks its flowing 5000rpm and it runs lean <bang>

You can't change it for a bigger one unless you have some means of changing the fuelling to compensate, not necessarily a whole ECU though, just an Apexi AFC or something.

AAAh, so thats why i can hold 1,3bar over 5500rpm approx. it leans out then.
guess its the afm then. thats the first to quit aint it? approx 310hp then injectors at approx 320 and turbo at 330-40.

 

[kizzyturbo4x4]

The standard MAF ( AFM ) can only sense so much air before it maxes out, normally around 4.2 Volts. It will go up to 5 volts, but after 4.2 Volts the air / volt curve is so flat that its practically useless.

Suppose it reaches maximum at 5000 rpm, that means that even if you rev it to 7000 rpm the ECU still thinks its flowing 5000rpm and it runs lean <bang>

You can't change it for a bigger one unless you have some means of changing the fuelling to compensate, not necessarily a whole ECU though, just an Apexi AFC or something.

AAAh, so thats why i can hold 1,3bar over 5500rpm approx. it leans out then.
guess its the afm then. thats the first to quit aint it? approx 310hp then injectors at approx 320 and turbo at 330-40.

guess ill just have to get rid of them all then :lol:

 

[AJ4]

lol 8)

The AFM and the 440 injectors tend to max out at the same time ( unfortunately ). Some people are lucky and get away with it, others not...

 

[Fire & skill]

The standard MAF ( AFM ) can only sense so much air before it maxes out, normally around 4.2 Volts. It will go up to 5 volts, but after 4.2 Volts the air / volt curve is so flat that its practically useless.

Suppose it reaches maximum at 5000 rpm, that means that even if you rev it to 7000 rpm the ECU still thinks its flowing 5000rpm and it runs lean <bang>

You can't change it for a bigger one unless you have some means of changing the fuelling to compensate, not necessarily a whole ECU though, just an Apexi AFC or something.

:shock: :shock: i think its time to get a new MAF :shock: