1 bar boost solenoid

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20vturbogaz

Guest
hi guys

I'm needing some help am about to run my gtir at 1 bar but i need to know that my boost solenoid is piped correctly . This is what it looks like now .plus i'll be fitting a bleed valve inline ( after the T on the pipe to the plenum chamber )
 
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youngsyp

Active Member
20vturbogaz said:
hi guys

I'm needing some help am about to run my gtir at 1 bar but i need to know that my boost solenoid is piped correctly . This is what it looks like now .plus i'll be fitting a bleed valve inline ( after the T on the pipe to the plenum chamber )
Click to expand...
If I remember correctly, one of the hoses on the solenoid will go from the plenum to the boost solenoid and one will go to the turbo actuator. On the original set up.

If you're installing a bleed valve, you just need to run the vac hose from the plenum, to the turbo actuator, with the bleed valve inline. Disconnect the OE boost solenoid and make sure the vac/pressure take off on the MAF to turbo pipe is bunged.

Paul
 
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Matty B

New Member
you can bypass the solonoid, there is a how to guide some where on here on how to do it. I did it when i first got my R and it ran 1 bar all day long. I can't quite remember how to do it but do a search. If you only want to run 1 bar then use this method and skip the bleed valve. Those things are dangerous matey.
 
Adam L

Adam L

New Member
I wouldn't say a bleed valve is dangerous, you just get idiots that think they're the source for unlimited power...
 
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turbodaily

New Member
yeah bleed valve is not much different to an electronic boost controller. as long as you set the boost and then tighten the locknut so it cant undo itself and run unlimited boost...

i would say in car bleed valves are worse as the temptation of tweeking the boost up is too great
 
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youngsyp

Active Member
turbodaily said:
yeah bleed valve is not much different to an electronic boost controller.
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There is a world of difference between the two. ;-)

Bleed valves are a very crude way to control the max or any boost level. A much better, cheap solution is the 'relief' valve. They are very simple and function in a way that's much closer to an electronic boost controller

Paul
 
Braveheart

Braveheart

New Member
youngsyp said:
Bleed valves are a very crude way to control the max or any boost level. A much better, cheap solution is the 'relief' valve. They are very simple and function in a way that's much closer to an electronic boost controller
Paul
Click to expand...
I agree with Paul. If you are going to use a manual boost controller, use a reief valve also known as a Dawes Device. It delivers a much cleaner boost curve with little to no spiking.

http://www.flat4online.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?pName=dawes-device-hybrid-boost-controller-impreza-9200

I've had this on my car for over a year and it works well.
0.9 - 1.0bar is safe with a standard car. You should uprate your fuel pump. Fit an electronic fuel controller if you want more boost and remember that the OE injectors can run out of puff if you take the boost much over a bar.
 
2

20vturbogaz

Guest
cheers for the replys guys, where does the dawes device go. i've already got a uprated fuel pump , k&n filter, a full systerm and a FMIC . Do you think it's best to run the car at 1 bar peak and hold 0.9 or 1.1 peak and 1 bar hold.
 
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MarkTurbo

Well-Known Member
Braveheart said:
remember that the OE injectors can run out of puff if you take the boost much over a bar.
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Havent heard that one for a while, next thing you'll be quoting the other old wives tale that the standard pistons wont take more than 1 bar :doh: :lol:
 
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turbodaily

New Member
youngsyp said:
There is a world of difference between the two. ;-)

Bleed valves are a very crude way to control the max or any boost level. A much better, cheap solution is the 'relief' valve. They are very simple and function in a way that's much closer to an electronic boost controller

Paul
Click to expand...
oh yeah i agree an electronic is much better way of doing it. what im saying is a bleed valve is no more dangerous than say an apexi avcr. its down to the person fiddling with it at the end of the day.
bleed valves have such a bad name because people not doing the lock nut up, or winding them out too much, or not connecting the hoses properly. if you fit it properly, set your boost, and lock the nut, there shouldnt be any probs ;-)
 
red reading

red reading

Active Member
brave heart 1.3-1.4 bar standard engine,injector's,maf,turbo on my car just got the usual fmic,bosch fuel pump,mongoose(soon to be changed),apexi filter and profec-b boost controller surprising how far you can go with the standard part's,ecu remap next,car is nigh on 300 bhp and 290-300 lbft torque on motorworx dyno.these car's in good fettle car handle more than 1bar mate
 
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turbodaily

New Member
ive always been led to believe the stock afm and injectors max out at around 1.2bar. fair enough you might get away with running more but they must be proper maxed out, leaving no room for error ie if it boost spikes one night or something..
 
Braveheart

Braveheart

New Member
I was airing on the side of caution.
I understand that you can run higher boost using OE injectors etc but it's better to be safe than sorry. I high mileage, poor maintained R would probable sh1t itself as 1.2bar.
Many things should be taken into acount before just turning up the boost.
 
red reading

red reading

Active Member
standard ecu no mods at all to the fueling so the injectors can't be maxed out chap's,just a big bosch fuel pump and good fuel filter,fc tuning set the boost controller up on the rolling road at motor workx with det cans on and constantly checking the afr,we did try more but a standard tubby began to sulk and would'nt push any more air.remember alot of car's running that boost have bigger turbo's that push more air volume at that pressure,so more fuel will be needed then,also the boost controller should stop spike's in boost
 
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