GTIR engine in an S13!!!

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
Hi guys.

A friend of mine just finished converting the GTIR engine for the S13.

It uses a megasquirt engine management, no rotative distributor, individual coils.

The engine he bought from me and then started modifying it to fit the S13.

Take a look.






 

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
S13 original box.
because of the space problems and the stand alone engine management we had some problems with the vacuum and the pressure conections.

But now they are somehow sorted.

Anyway it's still working on the software because on idle the afr is lean(very lean) and on gas is approx 14
 

turugtir

New Member
I'm sure that the SR20DET that is in the GTIR is pretty good, but, is it worth to do all that work when you can get a complete swap for about a grand that is plug & play? I don't know if the benefits of that engine are worth the hassle, but that's just my opinion. Good work though
 

Trip

New Member
S13 original box.
because of the space problems and the stand alone engine management we had some problems with the vacuum and the pressure conections.

But now they are somehow sorted.

Anyway it's still working on the software because on idle the afr is lean(very lean) and on gas is approx 14
Check that the MAF is Ok. or if you have any unmetered air going in the engine.. Does it Idle OK ? Also check fuel pressure and that all injectors have a good flow.
 

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
Trip....the main problem is that it doesn't have a MAF because of the Megasquirt, but instead of the MAF it uses a 3 bar map sensor....is that ok?

It doesn't idle that ok.....because we don't know how to map it....we are just trying different solutions for this point.

Fuel pressure is ok.....but 2 of the original GTIR injectors blew up and now we are using the 350 cc's from the ca18det engine.
 

Trip

New Member
Trip....the main problem is that it doesn't have a MAF because of the Megasquirt, but instead of the MAF it uses a 3 bar map sensor....is that ok?

It doesn't idle that ok.....because we don't know how to map it....we are just trying different solutions for this point.

Fuel pressure is ok.....but 2 of the original GTIR injectors blew up and now we are using the 350 cc's from the ca18det engine.

Wow.. everything is a little out here.. for starters, the original injectors are 440cc.. at least you should run 440cc or bigger. You can still compensate the loss of fuel from the ECU..

Running on MAP is Ok.. many modern aftermarket ecu's are running this kind of setup such as Haltech, Motec and AEM.

I cannot help you with the Megasquirt ECU. Do you have some kind of base map you can rely on to start with ?
 

warpspeed

Well-Known Member
check you have the correct pulsewidth in the software (should be around 3-5ms) and also check you have allowed the correct opening time for the injectors, i think the ca18det are low impedance, the pulsar's are high impedance so you need to check that, if you use setting for high impedance on low impedance injectors you will burn out the drivers in the ecu so DO NOT try running the engine again until you have checked or you could end up with a fried ecu! did you build or buy the ecu? the reason i ask is because if someone else built it you could ask them for a base map to get the car running. also if you are not planning on running 3 bar through the engine then change the map sensor settings so they are more suitable i.e. if the engine will only see 1.6bar set the map to 2 bar, you will get much better reading from the map sensor and find it easier to map the car
 

Trip

New Member
also if you are not planning on running 3 bar through the engine then change the map sensor settings so they are more suitable i.e. if the engine will only see 1.6bar set the map to 2 bar, you will get much better reading from the map sensor and find it easier to map the car
Wrong mate.

Map sensors do not work like that. A map sensor reads atmospheric pressure. When your car is OFF the map sensor will read 14.7psi (1bar). I typical GM 3 bar map sensor will read up to 2bar of boost. A GM 2bar map sensor will max out at 1 bar of boost.
 

warpspeed

Well-Known Member
ok i stand corrected

the wiring diagram/set-up instructions for my ecu tells me to set the range for my map sensor based on what boost i will be running
 

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
Ok....the pulsar injectors are low impedance.....I don't know about the ca18 injectors....

The ecu was made from scratch and we don't have a base map.

Can anyone supply us with a base map?????

For info :

The engine is a stock one without modifications
Ignition coils are denso form a Honda CBR 600 RR.

We had a real problem with iridium plugs, the engine wont start....but as soon as we replaced them with standard plugs the engine started.

Now if anyone has anymore ideas please do tell
 

warpspeed

Well-Known Member
i only use copper-cored plugs as platinum and iridium ones, once they strart breaking down can't be recovered as you would with copper ones, they produce a very strong spark at the start of their lives but if you present them with a mixture that's dificult to ignite they start failing. i found this out on lpg conversions where lpg requires around twice the voltage to ignite compared to petrol and i have seen every brand new set of platinum plugs garunteed for 150,000miles fail within 500miles with a correct mixture and no other faults.
 

warpspeed

Well-Known Member
also there are loads of megasquirt sites/forum, go googling, i converted a r5gt turbo to lpg injection and my friend bought and installed a megasquirt ecu to run it all, he spent hours online trying to work out base settings
 

turugtir

New Member
Do you have this?

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/...tor-with-wheel-simulator-assembled-p-178.html

That could save you a couple headaches as it tests the megasquirt to see if it's correctly asembled, so is worth a look.

The problem with that ECU is that not a lot of people (if any) has installed into a GTIR. Also, the engine loom is modified dor wasted spark, and that's a lot of changes to be made not having a point of reference (I mean with that that before modification X the car worked and now not, so the problem is in that step.) You have done so many steps that is pretty hard to figure out where is the problem.

But as I said, the ECU tester is a good thing to start, but that's just my 2 cents

Good luck
 
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