Air fuel ratio guage

[heaven is a gtir (bry)]

Just bought an air fuel ratio guage and i need to know the best place to wire it into. :roll: I know not to wire it to the actual sensor :roll: but where in the dash is the wire. :?

Isnt there a wire that goes from the oxygen sensor to the fault code plug?

If so what colour is it? or which position is it in. e.g top row third from the right.

Cheers for looking

Bry

 

[Shaun]

Hi mate,you need to wire it to pin 19 on the ECU

You have 'e'mail

 

[geetee]

Yeh pin 19 on the ECU connector.

Although I found it easier to run the wire through to the engine bay and splice it into the loom just by the connector for the Lambda.

Easier than messing about with the rats nest of wiring behind the ecu :lol:

Cheers
GeeTee 8)

 

[heaven is a gtir (bry)]

Cheers Guys.

What colour wire? Does anyone know.

The three wires on the lambda are red, black and white.

Bry

 

[Shaun]

iirc it should be a white wire Did you get my 'e'mail :?: Should help you out

 

[heaven is a gtir (bry)]

Got the email cheers shaun.

Thanks for the help guys.

Bry

 

[jiw]

i think you need to fit a seperate lambda as the gauge reads a different voltage mate, the car will read rich so i have heard as the pulsar uses a higher voltage for some reason

 

[Fire & skill]

sorry to hijack the post but where did you get the guage and how much are they? this will be my next buy for the pulsar

 

[chrislloydus]

Save your money or buy an EGT gauge. A/F gauges just look pretty, and dont actually tell you anything that you need to know (like A/F under boost) :roll:

 

[jiw]

Save your money or buy an EGT gauge. A/F gauges just look pretty, and dont actually tell you anything that you need to know (like A/F under boost) :roll:

please back this up, i read that a low egt can mean det and so can a high egt so why not have an afr gauge :?:

 

[Fast Guy]

Save your money or buy an EGT gauge. A/F gauges just look pretty, and dont actually tell you anything that you need to know (like A/F under boost) :roll:

please back this up, i read that a low egt can mean det and so can a high egt so why not have an afr gauge :?:

Yep I've read that too.

You need a wide band lamda sensor to get accurate readings I believe. I'm not sure good well the stock aftermarket ones are at indicating the actual a/f ratio. If they can accurately tell you're running lead on boost, well that would be quite useful

 

[heaven is a gtir (bry)]

I bought the guage off ebay from a company called lowtension.

I you do a search on ebay for this company then it is at the bottom of the page buy it now is about £28. £33 inc p+p.

Bry

P.s dont know how good they are but for £33 i will give it a try.

 

[geetee]

In answer to the above.

All off the shelf AFR gauges read from 0 - 1.0 Volts

The R's Lambda has a signal range from 0 - 1.6 Volts.

So under full throttle, the gauge will read Full Rich. But so it would if you had a 1V Lambda. You should be running a bit rich on full throttle and boost.

IF at any time the AFR gauge drops away from full rich when you are on full throttle / boost, you know the Lamba output has dropped below 1V which is actually in the in the Stoich range for the R's 1.6V Lambda. i.e. if this happens you should get your fuelling checked.

It's like any gauge, you just need to know how to interpret it. And no, it probably isn;t suitable for trying to tune your car

It's just one more double check that all is well.

Regards
GeeTee 8)

 

[kizzyturbo4x4]

well if thats right....... OOO F****KER.
:lol:
well... somehow it makes sense.
but at the same time ive never gotten any det, still the a/f has shown a dropping rate at high rpm/boost.
and if thats dropping below 1v and it should be dropping from 1,6v that should be pretty lean under 1v?

 

[Olly]

In answer to the above.

All off the shelf AFR gauges read from 0 - 1.0 Volts

The R's Lambda has a signal range from 0 - 1.6 Volts.

So under full throttle, the gauge will read Full Rich. But so it would if you had a 1V Lambda. You should be running a bit rich on full throttle and boost.

IF at any time the AFR gauge drops away from full rich when you are on full throttle / boost, you know the Lamba output has dropped below 1V which is actually in the in the Stoich range for the R's 1.6V Lambda. i.e. if this happens you should get your fuelling checked.

It's like any gauge, you just need to know how to interpret it. And no, it probably isn;t suitable for trying to tune your car

It's just one more double check that all is well.

Regards
GeeTee 8)

Thats exactly what i believe a gauge is a guage if when flat out that guage starts to back off (less than a 1 volt) then whatch out you may be leaning off and get checked. useful to see though. 8)

 

[geetee]

kizzyturbo4x4 - is your AFR Gauge falling off full rich on boost and full pedal?

How far off?

Bear in mind the R Lamda is 0 - 1.6V and Stoich is something like 0.7 - 1.2V your gauge could fall off full rich and not mean you're running lean.

Unless you're running a properly setup and 300+bhp R then you shouldn't be seeing that gauge move.

It depends on the gauge of course, but if your falling more than 3 - 4 pips off full rich then you're running a tad lean. If you've upped the boost, then maybe your fuel pump is on the way out. Could also be the Lambda is fooked from someone running leaded petrol through it.

You say you're not seeing any det..... how have you figured this? All but the most catastrophic det is undetectable without proper det cans. The standard det sensor is also a last resort to stop your engine being destroyed - not a reliable detector of ANY det all.

Cheers
GeeTee 8)

 

[chrislloydus]

If you put the EGT probe before the turbo then high EGT = det. After the turbo gets all kinds of complicated as the turbo acts like a giant heat sink.

Narrowband o2 probes (like the one on the GTiR) are only accurate around the stoich (14.7af) region as thats what they are designed for !
Thats before you run any boost........the increase in EGT from running boost makes the o2 probe even more inaccurate - some studies suggest that after 1 second of boost you should ignore the o2 probe.
A stock narrowband o2 probe reads rich up to 0.98volts, and lean after that. So you're tuning you car on a 0.02 volt knife edge :shock:
This is why you should upgrade to wide band IN ADDITION to your narrowband or your ECU will throw a wobbly. Better to spend £100 on a wideband than waste £30 on a narrowband gauge - all IMHO

 

[geetee]

I did actually say that an AFR gauge is not suitable for tuning your car.

But it is useful for seeing if you're suddenly running lean when booting it.

I agree, an EGT is the way to go. However, most people don't want the hassle of having to pull their manifold off, drill a hole in it, weld in a boss for the probe. And then run the slight risk that the probe breaks down dumping bits into your turbo.

 

[kizzyturbo4x4]

well for starters..
My current engine specs:

-Moongoose 2,5" from elbow
-Power intake
-Walbro 255 pump
-Blitz dump
-Hybrid (TheMonsterBig) FMIC
-some real good plugs (think its denso ik27?)
-8mm silikone leads
-FPR (set about standard, 2,7-2,8bars)
-Apexi AVC-R as boostcontroller
(-Standard tubby)
-running 1,2bars stable up to 6k rpm, then down to 1bar

so, got the A/F gauge made (Not by me so ive just been told) to
show 12leds within stoich area of the narrowband lambda probe.(thats what i know expect to be 0-1v lambda, as i never expected mine to be 0-1,6v )


up to 5000rpm it just stays with only the last red led(rich) on but
as i get past approx 5500rpm it starts to fall off
up to to more green leds. and if i give it 1,2 at high rpm also it falls to all the green leds and almost lites the first orange one, we are now 2leds from halfway down the A/F gauge.


so opinions?

and what power you think i should expect from this setup? :roll:

 

[geetee]

where did you get it made?

and can they convert a standard 1V AFR gauge to scale to 1.6V?