What have you done with your pulsar today?

Discussion in 'GENERAL R DISCUSSION' started by Johnny nofear, May 29, 2017.

  1. astarozna

    astarozna Member

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    TYC €40.- a piece
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2018
  2. Richard_Sideways

    Richard_Sideways Active Member

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    Cleared off the 'Red Shelf', dusted the old girl down and woke her up from her winter siesta for a run to Guildford for the eldests rugby tournament.

    Took the chance to update the To-Do list too:
    Get the wee bit of rot on the tailgate sorted
    Replace or refurb the gas struts on same
    fix the poxy handbrake gaiter
    sort out whatevers gone weird in the switch for the passenger window
    Get all the grime off the enginebay
    New tyres on the competition wheels
    and haul the old girl over to see Ed sometime, get a proper 'state of the nation' done and maybe new injectors and a fresh map done.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2018
  3. PobodY

    PobodY Moderator Staff Member

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    Any day now I'm going to have to get the rear arches sorted. - Anyone know how much money I need to put aside given that the inner arches (i.e. around the strut tower) are what I'm worried about more than the external arch?
     
  4. johnny gtir

    johnny gtir Well-Known Member

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    Prices vary massively depending on quality of work as well. Depends how much they cut out and weld in. Weather you have donar bits to weld in if req. sometimes decent welders can do great job cheap but body shop will always blame them and charge more. It’s finding someone good who can do the whole job at fair price. ( a lot of hours go in) see what others think but it’s £500 ish for outer arches so additional work alow another £300-500 but I am interested to see what others think
     
  5. keastygtir

    keastygtir Well-Known Member

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    warpspeed will be able to give you an good idea of a typical senario
     
  6. murty

    murty Member

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    had a bit of a winter update:
    power flex engine mounts all round,
    new break servo fitted,
    my Competition Clutch re padded thanks to the guys at Questmead,
    custom made front and rear engine stabilisers from Brooks Racing Developments,
    waxoyl underneath,
    and the biggie a brand new Quaife gear-set,

    this weekend hopefully but all that stuff back together and drive-able
     
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  7. Cathode

    Cathode Active Member

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    After being financially raped over the last couple of months due to:

    BMW E90 turbo blowing
    DPF packing up
    Starter motor packing up
    2 new rear tyres
    insurance/tax/mot
    Auto gearbox reprogramming.

    i'm a couple of ££££ lighter.

    So, yesterday i finally found the time to take the SR20 gearbox off. Hoorah!! And i was surprised at how easy and light it was. Now i can really start stripping it down and buying parts. Yay!
     
  8. keastygtir

    keastygtir Well-Known Member

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    rear spoiler and under headlight trim fitted, all that left is the bumpers!
     
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  9. Ryan Wolfe

    Ryan Wolfe New Member

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    I just did this myself (replaced/rebuilt my RR inner tower/turret) and mine was REALLY bad. I had to remove the turret and then weld in patch panels where the turret itself was spot welded to, there was no good metal to even weld a new turret to.

    I got a repair panel from Carz2uk, for about $50, but be forwarned, it is NOT the complete turret skin, it's only about the top 2/3rds of it and is designed to be butt welded to the bottom 1/3rd of your existing panel (usually they rust around the top of the turret, so hopefully you have something good to weld to). Also, the repair panels are for a 4/5 door sunny and don't quite line up right so there's a fair bit of metal work involved in getting them to fit right.
    I've no idea what it would cost someone to have this done at a shop, but based on the work I did, I had roughly 25 hours of fabrication labor just in the metal work, not including and primer, paint or seam sealer work.
     
  10. Jon Olds

    Jon Olds Active Member

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    Fired the rally car up, moved it around a bit to clean off the brakes and parked it up again. LOL
    Jon
     
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  11. Cathode

    Cathode Active Member

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    Yesterday, i took the head off the block, stripped parts / pipes off and took one of the pistons + con rod and shells out just to see what was what. A little blow by on piston 3, not much to write home about. What i was looking for was to see if they were standard or not. It read on the top 54C followed by 0.5. Anyone know what the 0.5 is referring to?

    Bores looked really good, no scoring at all :smiley:
     
  12. johnny gtir

    johnny gtir Well-Known Member

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    0.5 is over sized from standard will be fitted on previous rebuild
     
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  13. Cathode

    Cathode Active Member

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    i had suspected that but wasn't 100% sure.
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2018
  14. Cathode

    Cathode Active Member

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    Just to clarify before i buy (new pistons) i want the size 86.5?
     
  15. Jon Olds

    Jon Olds Active Member

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    Always measure the bores with a vernier
    Jon
     
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  16. Cathode

    Cathode Active Member

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    Will do!
     
  17. murty

    murty Member

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    got it running, a lot of resonance though the car due to race spec engine mounts, not sure how long that's going to last. just waiting on the weather to improve before i do some testing over a few miles.
     
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  18. Jon Olds

    Jon Olds Active Member

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    Listed loads of spare parts in the classified section yesterday...
    Trying to clear a shelf ready for the next project.
    Wanted to buy: A cherished number plate, will do a deal for one, let me know.
    Jon
    Next looking for a local trackday to try out my pulsar.....Had a misfire last competition, want to make sure its fixed.
     
  19. alphadrex

    alphadrex Member

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    Installed GTX2871R after a long, drawn out process of acquiring parts, fittings, customizing, fab, prep/paint/coatings, etc... It will be all worth it when it hits the road though. 20180414_180214.jpg 20180414_180240.jpg 20180414_180256.jpg
     
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  20. Cathode

    Cathode Active Member

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    Tasty!!
     

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