I bought myself a Pulsar

jaygtir

Member
Not been on here for a good while because my last PERRY built pulsar blew up around 2 years ago :shock:. I pulled the motor apart with a mate of mine and it needed a head, block, at least 2 pistons, a non Perryed head gasket and a load of missing bolts replaced.

It sat there for about 18 months while i pondered what to do. I decided to rebuild it and got it on a ramp. The shell was full of rust and parts had just rotted away. I was going to look at having it all welded up but after grinding the welds off that were holding the front wish bones on ( because the bolts were missing ) i thought i would be best to get another shell.
After a 200 mile round trip and £400 i was the proud owner of a mint black shell with a tiny little bubble of rust on one of the rear arches.

I started to price the bits i needed to rebuild the engine and replace some bodged items and it got expensive fast, not to mention the time and effort involved in re-shelling it. I put off doing any work and thought i will just give up and part out what i had until i heard a friend of a friend was selling his Pulsar. He had it on Ebay for £2500 and it didn't sell. I could not understand because it had a decent spec and the shell was mint. I went to go and see the guy and you could not ask for a more genuine and honest person to buy a car from. The was a list of problems with it that needed sorting, although it started, ran and revved up i could not drive it because the bottom alternator bolt was missing and the alternator was resting on the down pipe not charging and getting a bit hot. The guy proceeded to tell me that the car was re-shelled around 2 years ago and has never run right and after spending thousands more with the guy that re-shelled to get it right, he had given up and just wanted rid. When he told me who had done the work i was ready to walk away but my mate who came with me pointed out it was worth almost twice what he was asking in parts. Looking at it that way i handed over £2500 shook the guys hand and I BOUGHT MYSELF A PULSAR.

I had the car trailered to its new home while i work on putting it right and make a list of parts i need.
Basic spec of car is :

forged motor
GT3071 turbo
Custom exhaust manifold
Turbo smart 48mm progate
RC 1000CC injectors
Apexi power FC with hand commander
Apexi AVCR
Exedy sports organic clutch
Tien coilovers
Power flex bushes..... all the major ones
Tarox 6 pot front calipers
HKS front mount
front and rear strut braces
alloy rad
etc

I won't see the car now until next weekend but hopefully I will be able to put up some pics and a list of parts i need if anyone can help.

Its good to be back :)
 

jaygtir

Member
Perry? Are you talking DPMotorsport? Dave Perry etc?
I sure am I don't want to go into the amount of cock ups and bodges he's done to my car, this is just a thread about my new car and future plans but yes my last R got well an truly perryed unfortunately as is the case with my new one also, hence me wanting to walk away at the mere mention of his name.
 
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PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
For the sake of keeping the thread open (and within the club rules), don't go into too many details or point fingers at specific people. - Arses covered and all that.

Good luck with the new build; sounds like it's quite the beast.
 

jaygtir

Member
For the sake of keeping the thread open (and within the club rules), don't go into too many details or point fingers at specific people. - Arses covered and all that.
I 100% agree mate. I merely gave a brife account of my old and also my new project totally fact based and not my opinion or veiw.

Good luck with the new build; sounds like it's quite the beast.
Thanks for the kind words, im after a reliable 450bhp
 

The Doc

Moderators
Staff member
Was chatting with Allan earlier about this Jamie, I don't think you will struggle to build what you want.
 

jaygtir

Member
I only really told half the story from Saturday. Once i got my Pulsar to its new home i had a look to see what was stopping it from going down the road.
After i re-mounted the alternator, put the alternator belt back on, looked at a small water leak, moved the top rad hose that was rubbing a hole in, filled up the coolant, checked the oil, and made sure the battery was charging oh and taxed it on line i drove it to the petrol station to put £30 of BP's finest in.

Now before i tell you how it went here is a bit more history. After the guy who re-shelled it fitted 1000cc injector the car never ran again or rather started but would not rev up. the previous owner took it to a some one i know to have a look at it and try and put a map in. He looked over it did a few little bits just to get it running and handed the previous owner 1 and a half A4 pages of faults. The previous owner decided to have it mapped up on a dyno to make sure it was going to be worth spending yet more money on to fix all the faults. It made 371bhp @ 1.4 bar. he then decided to drive it home to park in his garage while he got the money together to fix all the faults. There it sat for a week or 2 and he decided to take it round the block to give it a run and charge the battery..... that's when the alternator fell off, that was the final straw and that's when he decided to sell it.

I spoke to the mapper and asked him why he stopped at 370bhp and he said that's all it would do as it was because the was so much wrong with it. he also said that it was laggyyyyyy and not reaching full boost until 5000rpm on a GT30 was to be expected with no gasket between the exhaust manifold and turbo, shims rattling there tits off and having 3.2mm worth of head ( GASKET'S ) on. That coupled together with an old fuel pump that ran out of flow is why he stopped at 370bhp.

Right back to my drive to the petrol station. Well even off boost driving because it was low on old fuel it drove like absolute sh!t. Fresh juice in and another 5 minutes of easy driving to make sure it was up to temp and the new fuel was circulating. Turned the AVCR off to see what it would run and well it popped, banged and farted its way up to about 6000rpm and .6ish bar of boost before i got out the throttle. I thought it might have fouled the plugs because it had been started for 30 seconds at a time just to pull it in and out of the garage so I ran it through a few more times on boost in second gear. It started to clear up and after 5 or 6 pulls i got a full clean pull in second gear with the AVCR now reading a solid 1 bar of boost. A few more 2nd and 3rd gear pulls and i was happy to try the low boost map. 1.2 bar clean and making all the right sounds i thought right time for the 1.4 bar map. Again clean and making all the right sounds i was starting t get happy about my new car.... that was until i realized that even though it sounded good it was slow and had no torque at all. decided to call it a day and take it home, tried to put the windows up no joy, tried to move my electric mirrors no go, tried the horn well you see the pattern. I started to look around to see what else was no working and the is no oil temp, oil pressure, stock or after market boost pressure apart from the AVCR and the speedo stopped working on the way back. Got back and thought i would let it run on to cool down, watched the water temp climb and climb on the hand commander and then remembered the previous owner telling me the rad fan was on a switch because after it was re-shelled it never worked. Flicked the switch cooled it down turned it off. I took this car on knowing the was lots wrong with it but the is no excuse for some of the problems when you have paid some one to sort it ( from the previous owners point of view ). I was happy that it ran, held temp and had low knock levels and i mean like really low.... That was until i saw the knock sensor had been moved to the side of the head and was no even connected. THAT WAS THE FINAL STRAW, THAT WAS WHEN I DECIDED TO SEL.............. just kidding. Back next week with pics and updates.
 
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vpulsar

Well-Known Member
I've worked on one of the cars built by you know who and I could of easily filled a few pages of faults, You're a brave chap I hope you can get it sorted and running as it should. It sounds like the head will have to come of for a new gasket and good luck with the shimming.

I hate wiring so good luck with trying to get it all working lol.


Rob
 

jaygtir

Member
2 failed attempts at putting up a picture and a photobucket account later you can now see my old head gasket. can any one guess what happened to it?
 

jaygtir

Member
He that shall not be mentioned for fear of upsetting the moderators and breaking the forum rules ( except were he is named in post #1 ) tried to remove and refit the oil pump in situ to fix a front crank oil seal leak on an engine that had done just 10 miles on a fresh forged build. when the oil pump would not clear the compressed head gasket to go back on out came the dremal and 1 layer of the multi layer gasket was cut out and replaced with instant gasket paste.
That there my friend is not only the luckiest guess i have ever seen but smack on the money.
 

jaygtir

Member
I said i would update this post on Saturday after i looked at my new Pulsar, but the truth is i have been putting it off because i lost the list of problems with it.
I did take a few picture and just had a look through them to jog my memory so i will try and list them all.

knock sensor relocated to side of the head and not reading. after tracing the wire back it was not connected.



Throttle cable held in place with perry paste because some one has striped the thread.



engine bay loom and fuse / relay box cut, spliced, wires twisted together and shoved through a hole into the wheel arch with no arch liners in place allowing water into every thing and causing all sorts of electrical problems.



only one rad fan and it only work on a switch. OH nice earth to the right of pic, the one with the RED cable.



The one rad fan that is fitted is jammed in between the rad and the inter cooler but don't worrie the guy that fitted it made some space by taking a hammer to the inter cooler and making a nice dent to accommodate it and jamming a pice of rubber in to stop it rubbing.



Could have done with a bit of rubber to stop this boost pipe rubbing a hole in itself against the batterie bracket.



This to could do with some rubber to stop the dump valve eating into the external waste gate.



The is some rubber in this equation but it is having a hole rubbed into it by the rad filler neck.



save weight by removing all of your metal injector plug clips and a few throttle linkage nuts. it makes all the difference. the injector plugs are now held on with perry paste and the throttle linkage with hopes and dreams.



Nylock's are the way forward for securing nearly £2000 worth of turbo, custom manifold and external waste gate.



On a serious note i know the guy behind these great flowing, power proven, nice looking and perfect fitting manifolds. They were sold as DP Manifolds but are more accurately described as Rustle fellows GTI-R manifolds. He still has the jig and he can make them un-gated, gated to fit any external gate if you supplie the gate flange and in T2 T3 and T4 turbo flanges.



You should see the 3.5" full system he dose for the R35 GTR.

Part 2 of the fault list and what i got up to on saturday will be posted tomorrow.
 
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