Engine re-build time

J

jambo_gtir

Member
Hi everyone, just after some help and advice really.

You may have seen my other post about my engine knocking now :x and I think it's fairly obvious now that its a big end bearing gone. I am going to get the engine out now and rebuild it with new bearings and pistons.
I only have about about £1000 to spend on it and I'm just after a nice re-built engine that is going to be reliable. I have made a list of parts I want to buy so far with the prices. Can people have a look and:

1. See if the list is complete, (parts missing? or parts that I don't really need).
2. See if the prices look reasonable, (got all the prices off ebay for now).

List so far:


CP Pistons - 68.5mm £420
Rocker stoppers £30
Timing chain kit £125
Engine Gasket set £85
Injector re-build kit £35
Oil pump £121
New valve seats £53
Engine bearing set (ACL) £101

So all that comes in at just under £1000, and that's not including the block being re-bored and honed.

I will only ever run it at 1bar and possibly get it mapped so its all set up good. I'm not interested in running silly power so is it worth getting the forged pistons? After a re-map id like to get around 300bhp and stop there really.

I have done a search on some of this but find it hard to find and collate all the bits of info I find throughout lots of different posts.

Thanks in advance 8)
 
J

jambo_gtir

Member
Just to add; I already have a brand new water pump fitted. All engine hoses were replaced 2 years ago when I had the engine out the first time. And I missed 'ARP rod studs' from the list.
 
P

pulsarboby

Guest
pulsar brum said:
get the proper hks pistons and put the cams in while u atr it
Click to expand...
theres nowt wrong with cp pistons, hks are good but very pricey!





thats a strange list you made tbh

new valve seats:?
timing chain kit may not be necessary
injector rebuild kit is not really necessary unless you have a faulty injector
rocker stoppers arent necessary
engine gasket set is not necessary as you only really need inlet and exhaust manifold gaskets

and as for bits you will need:
arp rod bolts
cosworth or hks h/g, oe one is fine also at that power
if your bores are still good then get cylinders honed and use standard size cp pistons 86mm
valve stem oil seals

the main thing is to make sure your crankshaft is in perfect condition....if its already knocking then im afraid its unlikely that it will be and good standard unground cranks are very difficult to obtain.
 
red reading

red reading

Active Member
As bob has said really, and brum (is'nt that a kid's tv program) hks are silly expensive and over rated pistons (like all there other made in taiwan stuff really)
 
J

jambo_gtir

Member
cheers guys.
Bob: the full gasket set comes with valve stem seals and head gasket as well as all others (as im sure u already knew), so thats why i went for that full set really.
How much am i looking at for the crank to be re-paired then? will it be fairly obvious if it is damaged slightly? can slight scratches just be polished out?
Cheers.
 
shroom

shroom

Active Member


thats the bugger, 0-60 in 3 seconds and fabled to have done a 10.2 at santapod last year,
also loves street racing
 
P

pulsarboby

Guest
jambo_gtir said:
How much am i looking at for the crank to be re-paired then? will it be fairly obvious if it is damaged slightly? can slight scratches just be polished out?
Cheers.
Click to expand...

as long as the marks are very light then they may polish out but general rule is that if you can run your fingernail across the journal and feel any scratches with your nail then its gone too far to be polished.
can get reground although i personally dont like ground cranks on turbo'd cars
 
campbellju

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
Jambo, what oil where you using in the car? Obviously its an old car now so we can never know the full history but a few of us had a theory about the "60" oils causing bottom ends to fail.
 
J

jambo_gtir

Member
well currently i have the castrol magnatec fully synthetic in there. Oilman on here said to change that though as it isnt good enough. The guy i bought the car from said thats what he used all the time. Since i have owned the car i have used various fully synthetic oils though :s
Thing is though, the knocking i have started about 6-7 months ago. It was during fire-works night last year when i was following my m8 in his GT4. I noticed a slight rattle at high revs. Since then it's just stayed the same really :(
 
campbellju

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
If that was a 10W40 oil then its not the issue I was thinking of and is the right spec for a road car. I've known of a few bottom ends that failed with 15W60 oil.
 
Trip

Trip

New Member
campbellju said:
If that was a 10W40 oil then its not the issue I was thinking of and is the right spec for a road car. I've known of a few bottom ends that failed with 15W60 oil.
Click to expand...
Could it be a coincidence though ? And what about the middle grade such as Silkolene Pro S 10w 50
 
P

pulsarboby

Guest
campbellju said:
If that was a 10W40 oil then its not the issue I was thinking of and is the right spec for a road car. I've known of a few bottom ends that failed with 15W60 oil.
Click to expand...
didnt realise there was a 15w/60 jim:?
ive heard of 5w/50 and 10w/60 which are both excellent oils.

if thats not a mistake and that is the correct viscosity then its possible that it may be too thick for our freezing winters lately which may have caused pickup problems on cold start leading to demise of engines
but when up to temp it should be a good oil on track etc.
 
Smo

Smo

Active Member
James - I've PM'd you the number for Fred Burt. He's the man to talk to about the machine work.
 
Smo

Smo

Active Member
Yes mate - lives out Cowes way. Very nice chap - does all the work in his shed (which is huge - full of all kinds of machinery. Porn for anyone remotely interested in engineering).
 
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