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So, I have a pretty much standard set up (stock internals, ecu, injectors, turbo) with an uprated fuel pump, a boost controller... I'm think of getting a nistune daughter board to squeeze a few more horses and maybe a better map out of it. My questions are; Is it worth it to get one? Would it...

Probably a rubber in either the slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder died after that 18 months.. Your clutch should be good still, it's just a matter of finding which rubber or cylinder has gone bad and replacing it.

Would be easier if u remove transferase an gearbox together... Let go all drive shafts, all brackets holding it to de block and all mounts except de one on driver side.. Loosen and remove gearbox bolts and leave the 2 top 17mm bolts. Then u could ease down gearbox an put a jack stand or...

The cable on my driver side (right) window regulator snapped :cry: .... Do any other Nissan vehicles use the same widow regulator? Or do I have to get a gtir specific part?

Yea I figured it was those pipes but was hoping not to have to do that job on another gtir :sad: sigh..... Guess I better just do it and get it over with

I've been ignoring this for quite sometime but now I feel the need to find and solve the problem... I've been smelling fuel from inside the car. The smell is pretty much there all the time but noticeably stronger with fresh fuel. It's coming from the tank area, and I see no liquid leaks...

Think I found my problem... Driving to and from work today, I noticed my BOV wasn't opening, so I took it off tonight, gave the vacuum pipe a suck and a pull and discovered its leaking :doh: slapped the stock recirculating BOV in... Prob solve... But it's venting to atmosphere and the spring is...

What do u refer to as the servo?

I backed out the idle screw like u said, it seems to idle better, a tiny bit lumpy but jus over the 750rpm mark but vacuum pressure still remains the same (around -10, -8psi) so am still a bit puzzled.

So, my car idles extremely low, shut off at times and also has a hard start... I have to blip the throttle to start it and keep rpm up or to keep it from not shutting off. It idles around 250-500rpm. Vacuum pressure is at -10psi, if I pump brakes the vacuum goes around -7psi may even shut of at...

i had no vacuum coming from any vacuum lines, boost/vacuum gauges were reading next to nothing... so after changing the knock and the plenum an getting the same results i took the engine out...haven't done any digging into it as yet but as soon as i do i'll update and let u guys know what i...

So I changed the knock and the intake manifold an I still have no vacuum pressure but I have good compression... I have no clue what to do now... Does any one have any idea of what's going on??

today i did the vacuum check with the cab cleaner came up with nothing...running out of ideas :cry:

i changed plugs and manage to get it started..still has the lumpy + crappy idle and rev going on... looking at both standard an aftermarket boost gauges, i noticed that the vacuum pressure is higher than where it should be (around -10 to -5 psi). took it for a short 100ft drive and had almost no...

No....

Soooo...changed the distributor, made no difference...changed the ecu, made no difference... So far, I've changed complete fuel rail with injectors and regulator, distributor, coil, igniter and it still has the same behavior... Could the det sensor be at fault?

I've changed the whole rail with injectors..

Ok I get what your saying Ed.. So what should happen when I plug off the resistor pack?

would the ecu still read codes if it was bad?

now it jus wont start..did a code check and got 55...seems to jam while starting if too much fuel enters cylinder...if i remove the plugs it turns over freely, when i put them back in and remove fuel pump relay it turns over freely...when i put it back in it turns over a bit then jams